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Laying Baize on a fedetral card table

Nadsy's picture

Matt


I'm making a card table and need advice on laying the baize on the inside surface of the folding top.  Should this simply be stuck down with adhesive and then the lipping be planed down to the correct height.  If so what adhesive should I use.


Alternatively, should the baize be layed before attatching the lipping to provide a clean edge.


Any advice or alternative source of information would be greatly appreciated.


Many thanks


Adam Findlay

MBerger's picture

(post #125651, reply #1 of 6)

Hi Nadsy.

Sorry it took me so long to reply. I actually didn't have an immediate answer to your question. I don't think we've ever written about that technique in the magazine. And the card table projects we did publish don't actually have a game table top.

I found one article on making a pool table in hopes that the cloth laid down on the slate top might follow a similar approach to your game table. Mostly it's stretched and stapled but the author used contact-cement to adhere the cloth on some parts...

http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/ProjectsAndDesign/ProjectsAndDesignPDF.aspx?id=2189

Steve Latta, one of our authors is the guy to ask about this. i'll send him an email and get back to you. Again, sorry about the wait.

Matt Berger
Fine Woodworking

MBerger's picture

(post #125651, reply #2 of 6)

I just spoke with Steve who is going to send me an email with his final answer. He's never applied baize but his colleague has, and he believes the adhesive of choice is hide glue. I mentioned the idea of using contact cement and he said that was not the historically accurate option but could work. More to come...

MBerger's picture

(post #125651, reply #3 of 6)

Here's your answer, via Steve Latta:


"To put down beize….use hide glue.  Brush out a standard film of hot hide.  Let it start to tack so that it does not bleed through the fabric.  Lay the fabric over the glue and, using a veneer hammer,  press it in.  Trim edges after glue has fully cured.  Loose patches can be touched with an iron."



He also mentioned that you can use 3M's 77 Spray Adhesive for a not so important clients.



 

Nadsy's picture

(post #125651, reply #4 of 6)

Matt


Thank you VERY much for this. I've used hide glue to veneer the front of the brick built apron, so have had lots of practice recently.  I'll give it a go.  Please thank Steve for me too.


Best wishes


Adam

RobK's picture

Hi Matt, Thanks for the (post #125651, reply #5 of 6)

Hi Matt,

Thanks for the info on baize and hide glue; I'm building Rob Millard's table, http://forums.finewoodworking.com/fine-woodworking-knots/knots-gallery/new-york-5-leg-card-table-c1795, and this will come in handy when I get close to done.

I have another question for you (or Steve Latta) about aligning the rear legs on card tables like this.

It seems that both fixed back legs are tenoned into the inner apron, and that the gate (fly) leg is tenoned onto a separate apron nailed to the back of the inner apron.  How then is it possible to align the gate leg (as they seem to do) with the fixed ones if the rear apron is in the way?

Thanks for your help, I haven't managed to find any plans/drawings of how this works.

Best,

Rob

leminhtien's picture

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