NEW! Faster Search Option
Loading
Help finishing top of my workbench
Hi there,
I built a workench with a top made of 3 layers of lamination: 2 outer MDF and 1 inner layer of pine planks. I glued and used screws.
Now I 'd like to put a 1/4 sheet of plywood on top to protect the MDF from water, and hide those screws. I don't want to glue the plywood as I eventually want to replace it.
I was thinking about using double sided carpet tape, but it looks like it's going to be messy to remove that sticky tape...
Do you guys have any other ideas on how to proceed?
Thanks!
Navigation
Recent Discussions
Lift mechanism needed 7 replies
Old plane vs new 8 replies
That "special" tool 6 replies
Buy American made 1 reply
Re: Holzman and Vega lathes 3 replies
Inca/Delta 20" Bandsaws 4 replies
Cast Iron Clamp 4 replies
Building a Floor Clook 1 reply
Music Boxes 1 reply
Star of David 3 replies
Hand Tool Grinding Angle Setups 11 replies
More Rust Hunter 1 reply
Lie-Nielsen Router Plane 3 replies
Regarding sharpening 2 replies
looking for lignum vitae mallet 28 replies
Best saw for dovetails 4 replies
Half lap joints 2 replies
Rolltop desk top 3 replies
Large Pins, small tails 4 replies
Adhesive to use for laminating MDF? 8 replies
Seasonal movement of Cherry 3 replies
Boxwood 5 replies
More on cutting thin cuts 4 replies
Can't see any videos 2 replies
Forced log-offs . . . again? 4 replies
Fix: Private Messaging Spam 13 replies
Get in touch with author 1 reply



top surface material (post #169179, reply #1 of 3)
Conventional 1/4" plywood is likely to have voids, and may warp. You might consider using Masonite (tempered hardboard) instead, and keep it in place with edging strips.
A couple of coats of shellac (I use a one-pound cut) on the Masonite does the trick.
Thanks for the tip! I (post #169179, reply #2 of 3)
Thanks for the tip!
I already bought the plywood, but when it will be time to swap it out, I'll try out the masonite board.
MDF Top (post #169179, reply #3 of 3)
Howdy Yannick. One of my workbenches has a double 3/4" MDF Slab as the table top as well. The top was soaked with Danish Oil (to absorb into the mdf) and then coated with a poly/varnish after it fully cured. I've had that bench for 5 years now and let me tell you it has been through the worst kind of abuse you can imagine; chiseling, breaking down plywood and just slightly having the circ-saw height too low, spillage, sharpening and everything else that I could shake a stick at. And you know what? It is still as square and true and looks as great as it ever did when I first built it. (with a few stains and nicks here and there of coarse)
I guess it boils down to what you want to do. 1/4" ply is a good idea if you want to refresh the top when you wear it out, but it can become a hassle, especially due to the weak nature of 1/4" ply with all it's layers. MDF is one of the most dimensionally stable materials that you can buy, and it soaks up finishes very well so it can be made to be nearly water proof. I use water stones on top of a small rubber mat right on top of that very work bench when sharpening my hand tools and the water stays put. One great top just by itself! Here's the rundown of what I used:
recess the screws a bit and put woodfiller in the holes, sand flush, watco danish oil (soak it in good, mdf is thirsty!), and any fast drying polyurethane (2 coats)
After trying many tops, I would definitely use this again. It's strong, stable, and very cost effective. Good luck! -TL