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Warped Plywood, how to straighten it for simple doors without stiles or rails?
Warped Plywood, how to straighten it for simple doors without stiles or rails? (post #162011)
wikwoo on Fri, 02/18/2011 - 15:00
I have some 7-ply veneer core 23/32" pine plywood. After cutting it for some simple cabinet doors it has warped. I tried straightening the doors by applying some 1" square backer stays with screws but it still won't pull the last bit of warping out. Any suggestions out there would be greatly appreciated.
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You can't use construction (post #162011, reply #1 of 4)
You can't use construction plywood for cabinetry and expect it to be flat or straighten it after it's warped.
Beat it to fit / Paint it to match
This wasn't CDX plywood, it (post #162011, reply #2 of 4)
This wasn't CDX plywood, it is "Arauco" pine plwood from Brazil with an "A" side and an "AB" side. I had used it before with no problems. Perhaps this batch wasn't made with as much care as the previous. Oh well, I just wondered if there was a trick to make it flat again.
Thanks for responding.
wic, Even on the better (post #162011, reply #3 of 4)
wic, Even on the better grades of some plywoods occasionally the core may not be stable or dry enough so when those sheets get cut up they can warp because of the internal moisture content .
Honestly more then several times I have had domestic plywoods react the same way .
When the core is either too wet or a specie that is simply not the best for core like Poplar or White Fir or worse the stbility can be compromised /
It is difficult at best to try and change the warped plywood , I really think it is an up hill battle but you can try over bending the pieces in the opposite direction , clamp them down to a bench top ,let them stay for a day and take a look .
good luck dusty
This works on Solid Wood (post #162011, reply #4 of 4)
If it's a simple warp, not a twist, I've used this technique on wood panels and tops. Take it and throw it out on the lawn on a sunny clear day and leave it a while. The moisture from the ground will seep into the bottom and the sun will dry out the top. The process doesn't take long, so monotor closely or it will warp the opposite direction. I usually let it dry and while and then seal the surface that same day to retain the moisture balance (or imbalance). I've had a fair amount of success with this, even on restored furniture and table tops. I've never used the clamp/weight/jump on method to any avail. Best of luck.