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Drilling Douglas Fir

Drilling Douglas Fir (post #169337)

Saville on Mon, 11/14/2011 - 11:12

Wood and Materials

Has anyone noticed the following problem when trying to drill holes in Doug Fir:

When trying to drill small holes - 1/8" and sometimes even 1/4" - the bit seems to be re-directed by the grain of the wood. Pushed to the side a bit.

What kind of bits are you using ? (post #169337, reply #1 of 5)

by roc in reply to Saville [original] on Mon, 11/14/2011 - 20:17

These for 1/4 . Yes ?

http://www.amazon.com/Freud-FB-104-Bit-1...

For 1/8 "

http://www.amazon.com/Steelex-Plus-D2332...

For smaller sizes you could use bullet split point or drill 1/16 " then go up one or two sizes to "ream" the hole progressively more to your likeing.

Using a drill press in any case . Yes ?

roc

Give me six hours to chop down a tree and I will spend the first four sharpening the axe. Abraham Lincoln ( 54° shaves )

oh and I almost forgot . . . (post #169337, reply #2 of 5)

by roc in reply to Saville [original] on Mon, 11/14/2011 - 20:24

I find the condition of the cutting geometry and accuracy of the woodworking bits to be appalling. Very often I have to reshape and improve them before they cut right. Using a magnification visor with built in light and a diamond file in hand.

roc

Give me six hours to chop down a tree and I will spend the first four sharpening the axe. Abraham Lincoln ( 54° shaves )

Not always (post #169337, reply #3 of 5)

by Saville in reply to Saville [original] on Tue, 11/15/2011 - 07:55

Using a drill press in any case not always. I first noticed the effect when I tried to drill pilot holes for hinges in the vertical Doug Fir beams you see in the attached photo:

The long pieces of pine on either side of the large raised panel doors are also doors and I mounted the hinges on the doug fir directly. You can see the hinges on the second photo. When I drilled those holes I could see the bit get bent to the side. Subsequent fooling around with Doug Fir demonstrated the same thing - even when I used a drill press and a 1/4" twist drill bit: even when I did use a drill press, I could see the bit flex as it struck the darker line of the wood grain.

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Regular metal cutting twist drill bits ? (post #169337, reply #4 of 5)

by roc in reply to Saville [original] on Tue, 11/15/2011 - 15:02

Please try bits for wood recommended above. They have center spur to prevent wandering off center and sharp rim or outer tooth to establish accurate starting of bit in multi density material; that is to say, . . .

wood.

Let us know how those work for you. If not good enough then there are further measures that can be taken.

But yes bits for metal cutting wander in wood types with marked density differentials.

ALSO ! Dull twist bits or improperly sharpened bits are going to be disastrous even with all the "tricks" in the world.

Will your bit dig into your fingernail at the cutting edge ?

Will it dig in along that edge all the way out to the outer radius of the edge or is it dubbed there ?

roc

Give me six hours to chop down a tree and I will spend the first four sharpening the axe. Abraham Lincoln ( 54° shaves )

patience (post #169337, reply #5 of 5)

by RalphBarker in reply to Saville [original] on Wed, 11/16/2011 - 08:33

The geometry of conventional drill bits makes it easy for them to be deflected by density variations. That's particularly true if the bit isn't sharp, or if the driller isn't patient. Brad point bits are less prone to deflection, but one still has to give them time to do their work.