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Acclimatization Iowa to Colorado and back

Acclimatization Iowa to Colorado and back (post #169559)

rhammans on Wed, 01/04/2012 - 20:37

Wood and Materials

Hello all,

I am doing a commission for a client in Iowa, he is sending me the wood. Thoughts on how to deal with the wood moving from high humidity to low humidity (Colorado winter) and then back in a short time?

Thanks

Rick

I had a girl friend once (post #169559, reply #1 of 8)

by roc in reply to rhammans [original] on Wed, 01/04/2012 - 22:22

She was from Hawaii. She moved to Colorado. When we would go hiking , once we got high enough on the mountain, she would sit down on a log or rock and throw up. Right about 11,000 feet elevation. Like clock work.

PS: Oops . . .

You're new here. Welcome to Knots !

You will get some great help here just hang on.

I don't have an answer except maybe my subconscious saying : Nature . . . not much you can do; things are going to move; leave some room for it.

roc

Give me six hours to chop down a tree and I will spend the first four sharpening the axe. Abraham Lincoln ( 54° shaves )

altitude effects (post #169559, reply #4 of 8)

by RalphBarker in reply to roc [original] on Fri, 01/06/2012 - 15:31

FWIW, I get terrible headaches if I drink Coors beer at elevations below 4,000 feet.

Coors beer and head aches (post #169559, reply #7 of 8)

by roc in reply to RalphBarker [original] on Fri, 01/06/2012 - 21:53

Oh that's the "Rocky Flats spring water". Radio active you know. Below 4000 ft there is less repulsive effect , to modulate the release of the more enthusiastic isotopes , by the magnetic lines of the earth and the radiation coming off the Sun . See Aurora borealis.

Yah to drink Coors bellow 4000 feet is to play Russian roulette with your health. I think if I were to travel in such fast company as you seem to I would go straight for a Pan Galactic Gargle Blaster and have done with it.

Ah that Ol' Janx Spirit . . . oh, that Santraginean seawater . . . the Qualactin Hypermint Extract redolent of all the heady odors of the dark Qualactin Zones, subtle, sweet and mystic.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IVusLV9ON...

roc

Give me six hours to chop down a tree and I will spend the first four sharpening the axe. Abraham Lincoln ( 54° shaves )

Kerz beer (post #169559, reply #8 of 8)

by RalphBarker in reply to roc [original] on Wed, 01/11/2012 - 10:43

Actually, I try to avoid Coors (AKA "Kerz" in some circles). But, in New Mexico, if we don't drink a minimum number of bottles of Sierra Blanca Roswell Alien Amber Ale, our taxes go up. ;-)

Or Not (post #169559, reply #2 of 8)

by roc in reply to rhammans [original] on Thu, 01/05/2012 - 21:23

>You will get some great help here just hang on.<

Here are some thoughts :

Have him paint the ends of the wood before he sends them to you. House paint works but bees wax, heated and brushed on thick, may be even better. This is the way some of the premium wood was prepared before being sent to me from back east. This may slow the inevitable drying out once it gets to Colorado and maybe prevent some end splits.
When fitting doors, drawers etc., leave room for the wood to take on moisture and so widen across any boards that are flat sawn once it is returned to him. There are charts and on line computer calculators to tell you about how much movement to expect for a given width of a specific species of wood.
Any wood that shows reaction wood tendencies, spiraling along its length should probably just be culled and not used.
You probably have a moisture meter ; if not get one. After a couple of weeks compare the wood you get from him to wood that is in your shop from a long time ago once it is the same you could work it. If the stock is extra thick then for sure expect to mill it to rough dimension plus a bit more than you normally leave on and then after ( a few weeks ? ) remill it to compensate for changes.

There; at least that will give the real people here something to pick apart or hopefully elaborate on.

: )

roc

Give me six hours to chop down a tree and I will spend the first four sharpening the axe. Abraham Lincoln ( 54° shaves )

I agree with Roc (post #169559, reply #3 of 8)

by RalphBarker in reply to rhammans [original] on Fri, 01/06/2012 - 15:29

I'd have your customer seal the ends with either latex paint or wax (regular paraffin wax will do*). Then, let it acclimate in your shop for a couple of weeks. Once it is back home in Iowa, it will expand, but more slowly due to being finished. Joinery design should, of course, allow for normal seasonal expansion/contraction.

* I've heard that if you cover the end grain with bee's wax, you have to use a buzz saw to cut it. ;-)

: ) (post #169559, reply #5 of 8)

by roc in reply to rhammans [original] on Fri, 01/06/2012 - 18:59

>Buzz saw<

Oh bee-have

roc

Give me six hours to chop down a tree and I will spend the first four sharpening the axe. Abraham Lincoln ( 54° shaves )

If he has the wood stored (post #169559, reply #6 of 8)

by sleepydad in reply to rhammans [original] on Fri, 01/06/2012 - 20:49

If he has the wood stored outside or in a garage it is about 18 percent. Depending on the wood spec. I would be surprised if it caused you to much trouble. But ya it is going to move a bit once in co

if he has it inside it's probably 7 - 10 percent. We have low relative humidity inside our heated spaces in the winter.

Depending on how thick it is and what the initial moisture content is and the species? You had better let it sit in your shop for a week or 2. I got some nice 8/4 cvg fir from collectors spec. Woods in co last year and had it shipped to mn. Moisture was 10 percent when I got. That same wood is now 7 percent.