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GeneSwensen's picture

I am a novice woodworker and would appreciate some advice regarding my Jet 18” bandsaw.


 


I notice very little vibration without a blade on the saw.  I can balance a nickel on the table, it moves around a little but seldom falls over.  I read somewhere the nickel balancing act was a good test, is this true?  However, since my objective is to resaw wood into veneer a blade is required and the nickel trick does not help.  I have tried both the original ¾” blade that came with the saw and a 1” Timberwolf blade, there is little if any difference in vibration with both these blades so don’t think it is the weld.  With blade installed balancing a nickel is impossible, the vibration is visible noticeable, placing your hand on the table makes your teeth rattle.


 


I called Jet tech support and they are sending me out a new top wheel.  The assumption being that it is out of balance and this is causing the vibration problem.  I read a good way to check for balance is to place a mark on the wheel and spin it to see if the same spot on the wheel regularly ends up at the bottom.  Mine did 50% of the time and the rest of the time it always ended up in the bottom half.  I then decided to check the bottom wheel using the same method and the results were more of the same with the wheel ending up between 6 o’clock and 9 o’clock 80% of the time.  On several occasions I noticed the wheel would stop around 9 o’clock and then change directions and stop between 5 and 6 o’clock.


 


I also notice the blade tracks in the center of the top wheel but toward the front on the bottom wheel.  I assume the blade should track in the middle of both wheels, is this correct or am I concerned about an unimportant detail?


 


I am also concerned about the power of a 1 ½ HP motor.  It seems to labor when resawing 8” to 10” hard wood even with a slow feed rate.  I rewired the motor to 240 at Jets recommendation.  Jet tech support said this would help but I have not tested the results since I am waiting on the a new top wheel from Jet.


 


I started out thinking Jet made a good product but I have read several magazine reviews of late that seem to place the Jet 18” bandsaw near the bottom in its class.  My confidence has been shaken and I am beginning to feel I made a wrong decision and should return the Jet and purchase another brand.


 


Any advice/help you can provide would be greatly appreciated.  Sorry this post got so lengthy…


 


Thanks,


GeneS


Edited 12/1/2004 12:59 am ET by GeneS

Dennis02's picture

(post #97721, reply #1 of 31)

Gene -

With respect to blades, wheel balance and such I can't make any comments - don't have the knowledge of such things. But -

The blade should in fact track on the center of both wheels. At least that's mu understanding of how these things work. My Delta didn't when I got it. I remedied that by shimming the top wheel out, in my case since the blade would track towards the near side of the top wheel when centered on the bottom. Since making this adjustment the saw cuts much better and with a sharp blade I don't get much drift.

...........
From Beautiful Skagit Co. Wa.
Dennis
........... From Beautiful Skagit Co. Wa. Dennis
GeneSwensen's picture

(post #97721, reply #6 of 31)

Dennis,


I spoke with Jet again today and they did not seem to think it was all that important that the blade tracked in the middle of the wheel as long as it did not look like it would come off.  Not sure what the right answer is at this point.


Thanks you your comments,


Gene

Dennis02's picture

(post #97721, reply #7 of 31)

Well, Gene, as I recall from your original post, the blade tracks in the center of one wheel and not the other. That can only mean, as far as I know, that the wheels are not in a common plane. This may not be a major contributor to your vibration problem but, from all the reading I've done with respect to tuning a band saw, it's definitely something that should be addressed. I have no idea what the mechanics of the Jet saw are like but on my Delta there's a single nut that holds the top wheel on its axle. There was one washer behind the wheel as it came from the factory. I picked up a shim washer from my saw shop, several of different thinknesses in fact, and by trial and error fitting them behind the top wheel got both wheels in as near perfect alignment as my measuring tools would permit. If your blade tracks too far back on the top wheel while centered on the bottom, that means the top wheel is too far forward. I don't see any way of moving it *back* if that's the case. I wouldn't attempt any modification of the bottom wheel whatsoever since this is the drive wheel and you've got the motor alignment and all the drive train to consider. If you need or can make any adjustments, do it only with the top wheel.

...........
From Beautiful Skagit Co. Wa.
Dennis
........... From Beautiful Skagit Co. Wa. Dennis
GeneSwensen's picture

(post #97721, reply #8 of 31)

Dennis, the blade tracks in the center of the top wheel and too far forward on the bottom so your suggestion of putting a shim washer behind the top wheel seems like it should work.  Guess tomorrow I will go in search of washers and tomorrow night I will know if this helps the vibration problem.


Thanks for your suggestion.


Gene

Dennis02's picture

(post #97721, reply #13 of 31)

Hi Gene -

I don't, or didn't mean to imply that having the wheels out of plane would cause vibration. If fixing them remedies the problem, all the better. But mainly the blade should travel on the crown of both wheels for best results from the saw, vibration not withstanding.

Would it be out of the question to take the wheels to a machine shop or somewhere where they could check them for being out of ballance?

Better yet, start from scratch -

Take the belt off the motor pulley and turn the saw on. Vibration? Then it's a motor problem. No vibration? Start putting things back together. With the motor turning just the drive wheel, is there vibration? Then there's the problem. No vibration? Then there's something wrong between the blade and the upper wheel if the vibration occurs when the saw's back together. I don't know how to 'test' the upper wheel without a blade installed other than taking it off and taking somewhere to have it checked.

Or, .... simply take the saw back. Personally if you've been bitten by the woodworking bug I have no doubt that you'll outgrow that saw in no time anyway. I rue the day I bought mine - wish I'd had the foresight to get a bigger one.

...........
From Beautiful Skagit Co. Wa.
Dennis
........... From Beautiful Skagit Co. Wa. Dennis
sawdustom's picture

(post #97721, reply #2 of 31)

I had a Jet 18" bandsaw about two years ago. When I received the saw the vibration was incredible - at least as bad as you describe. I went through all the tuning and tweaking recommended by Jet and it didn't help. Eventually, I returned the saw.

One possible problem to check out is the upper wheel support bracket. This bracket is adjustable to ensure that both wheels are coplanar. On my saw the bracket was distorted and bent. This may be part of the problem but it's not likely the whole problem.

My guess is that the wheels are out of balance - this combined with the load from the blade and potential coplanar problems will cause the saw to vibrate.

Check the upper bracket - if it's bent or distorted have Jet send a new one. Try the new upper wheel. If this doesn't fix the problem send it back.

GeneSwensen's picture

(post #97721, reply #4 of 31)

Tom,


I checked the upper wheel support bracket and did not see any problems, however since I have nothing else to compare it with I maybe overlooking an obvious flaw that a more knowledgeable person would spot in a minute.


Recieved the new top wheel and tire from Jet today and after installing can not tell any improvement.  Table still vibrates a lot.  Will give Jet a call tomorrow but not optimistic they are going to come up with a solution.  I am afriad this may just be a limitation of the product.


You mention you had a Jet a couple of years ago, what do you have now and are you pleased with your current bandsaw?  I know I need a bandsaw but not sure what to get.  I read a lot of nice things about the MM 16 and since I live in Austin, TX I went to there office yesterday to look at one.  Seems to be very rock solid compared to the Jet but since it costs twice as much this is not a fair comparision. The $2,000 price tag is not in the budget but not sure what the options are if all the $1,000 units perform similar to the Jet.


Gene

sawdustom's picture

(post #97721, reply #10 of 31)

GeneS,

"what do you have now and are you pleased with your current bandsaw"

I was also budget constrained so after some research I decided to get a Delta X5 14" with the riser block. Using lots of guidance and some upgrade parts from Iturra Designs I was able to tune the saw so that it runs very smoothly. I've resawed cherry, oak and maple (up to 10") and the 1 1/2 hp motor seems to handle it OK.

Now for the rest of the story.

The table I got from Delta was useless - it was over .035" out of flat. I built my own. I also built my own fence. I spent over 20 hour aligning and tuning the saw. I meticulously aligned the wheels to ensure they were coplanar. The riser block gives lots of flexibility but it also challenges. I upgraded everything including the pulleys and belt.

I like the saw - it does everything I want it to do. However, between aligning, tuning and building a new table and fence I invested a lot of hours. Talk to the people at Iturra (I think you can find their number in the FWW advertisers diretory.) They will give your good guidance on getting the most for your $.

If I had to do it again - since I have more time than money - I would have bought a used bandsaw and spent the time rebuiding the machine.

BigK's picture

(post #97721, reply #30 of 31)

Gene,


     I will assume that you posted because you seek advice. Here is my .02 worth, it is based on hard experience with a Jet 18" BS and a MM16. Return the Jet if that is an option. Sell it to someone else; get rid of it. They are poorly made machines. Spend your hard earned money on the MM16. Yes, it costs consirerably more but quality is not cheap. After using your new BS for a short time I'm sure that you will agree that the MM BS is all of the machine that Jet and Delta say they are and wish that they could be. You will be avoiding a lot of frustation and heartache if you follow my advice.


     This advice will no doubt offend someone out there in the netherworld, I am sorry if the truth hurts. Best of luck to you Gene.

Rich14's picture

(post #97721, reply #31 of 31)

BigK,


I have seen the MiniMax demonstrated, and while I didn't get a chance to use it myself, it was one very impressive machine. I was able to examine it without power. It is rock solid. Much, much stronger than the Jet or Delta machines, without a doubt. It is worth every bit of the price differential over the Jet and Delta. No comparison. There is nothing like the enjoyment of doing work on a really good piece of equipment.


I don't have any experience with Jet machines, but Deltas, despite being less robust than a MiniMax have a long track record of excellent service. Even very low-end bandsaws can give surprisingly good results.


A broken weld is a very unusual occurance. If fixed, the machine should perform well. If it is a common occurance on Jet machines, there is either a serious design flaw or really poor quality control.


Rich

jptenberg's picture

(post #97721, reply #3 of 31)

Gene--


I recently sold my jet18--as I had struggled w/ it for 4 yrs.  I am now the proud owner of a laguna--That being said, I will share some advice with you.


I found that the Jet was very underpowered for resawing.  I routinely tried to resaw 8/4 maple, and had varying successes, but the saw would really bog down unless the feed ratre was ridiculously slow.  I did not rewire the motor to 240, but my understanding is that one does not really gain any HP from doing so, the motor may run more efficiently, but I wouldn't expect dramatic results.


I never tried to balance a nickel on my saw, but I don't think that it ever would have worked--except when it was not running :)


I upgraded to the carter roller bearings, and they did help things, as did a new blade.  I was fairly happy with the results that I got from a lennox carbide tipped blade--although it was pricey at $1/inch.


You might pick up a copy of the bandsaw book--it is helpful in tuning a saw if you don't know the ins and outs.  Also make sure that the fence is set for the right drift, as this will affect things a lot.


Good luck

GeneSwensen's picture

(post #97721, reply #5 of 31)

jptenberg,


Which Laguna model did you get?  I have looked at Laguna but have read better comments about Minimax.  Laguna customer service seems to get a fair amount of bad press. Have you been pleased with their customer service? I know I will get a bandsaw but really want to make sure I am happy with the one I purchase.


I acquired a copy of the bandsaw book.  Hopefully the tune up process will help but in order for me to keep the saw I need to get the vibration problem under control.


Gene

jptenberg's picture

(post #97721, reply #9 of 31)

Gene--


I got the LT16, which after all was said and done was about 1700$, but that included shipping, mobility kit, and several blades, one of which was $200. 


The saw arrived when it was supposed to, and I thought that the wrong motor had been shipped, but a call to the company revealed that the motor had only the wrong plate on it--not a big deal.  After about 3 hours of cleaning and setup, the saw works great--much better than the Jet.


If I were you, and I had the option, I would return the Jet.  Laguna would be considerably more, but you woon't regret the $ in the long run.  The only down side is that they are based in CA, whereas MM is in Texas.  I looked at both machines, & I feel that they are interchangable as far as performance.  If you have had the chance to look at a MM in person, and buy from someone local, I would recommend that as opposed to having a saw shipped.


That being said, I have heard good things on this site about the Grizzly 17" saw, and I thing that it would fit your budget better than one of the Italians.  You might pich up a copy of the current American Woodworker mag, as they have a review of 16-18" bandsaws in the 1-2K range.  It's well worth reading.


Peter


jpswoodworking.com

GeneSwensen's picture

(post #97721, reply #11 of 31)

Peter,


 Glad you are pleased with the LT16, I have given it serious consideration along with Bridgewood, MM and Agazzani. I have concluded that all of these will blow the budget and the cost will be in the $2,000 price range rather than the $1,000 range where I was trying to stay. The question I am trying to answer is will I be satisfied with anything less.


I have a subscription to American Wood worker and have read the bandsaw article so many times the ink is coming off the pages. They like most reviews seem to pick the Laguna and MM as top picks. Unfortunately, they seem to put my Jet near the bottom which makes me think that perhaps this is related to the many challanges I am having.


Sawdust Tom,


Glad to see you are pleased with your 14” Delta X5, I have read good things about the Delta X5 (American Woodworker for example). I believe the price on this unit is around $900 and with the upgrades you have made and the considerable time you have invested I have questioned if it is really that much less than the MM plus the MM has a 3.5 HP motor along with other issues I would not have on the Delta.


I have to admit the MM is not that much to look at but I am more concerned about performance than looks. Before I purchase one I will definitely take in a wood sample for a hands on demo.


JET update… I spoke with Jet again this morning and they are sending a bunch of new parts. I am beginning to think I can build two saws. They said if this did not fix the problem that would make arrangements to send out a tech. Why they want me to replace everything before the tech comes out seems a little strange but guess they figure it is less expensive and usually solves the problem. I have to give Jet credit they seem to be willing to really work with there customers to solve a problem. Guess I will have to see how this all unfolds.


Thanks again to all for your suggestions and help.


Gene

MarkRoderick's picture

(post #97721, reply #12 of 31)

I'm not sure what level woodworker you are, but it sounds to me as if you've got that bug all of us get from time to time, worried that your new tool purchase won't be "enough."


I could almost guaranty that if you spend $1,000 and get a top-end 14" bandsaw you'll never think about buying another bandsaw for the rest of your life. It sounds to me as if maybe that's the direction you should go.

PeteBradley's picture

(post #97721, reply #20 of 31)

I'm another old iron fanatic. I'd caution you though that old iron tends to require a somewhat different set of skills (and sometimes tools). If you haven't pulled apart (and successfully reassembled!) a lot of machinery in the past, this probably isn't a great opportunity to start.

I'm guessing that something is wrong in the top shaft assembly of your Jet such as bad bearings, something bent, etc. Good luck with the tech, but don't give this machine too much time before you return it and try something else.

Not sure what your needs are, but the U.S. made versions of the Delta 14" seem to be a consistent favorite. Parts/upgrades are readily available, and a riser block allows a fair bit of resaw capacity. You may outgrow it (it won't be hard to resell), and as a novice woodworker you may also find it does practically everything you need.

Last year I attended the estate auction of Paul Koda, a well-known maker of Colonial and Federal reproduction furniture in Hartford. Among the thousands of tools in his shop was his band saw, a well-worn Delta 14".

Pete

jc21's picture

(post #97721, reply #14 of 31)

Sounds as if your wheels aren't coplanar. I've found Lonnie Bird's The Bandsaw Book really helpful both in researching and buying a bandsaw this fall and setting it up after I got it ............... wouldn't be without it. http://www.taunton.com/store/pages/070406.asp 



"There can be no doubt that Socialism is inseparably interwoven with totalitarianism and the abject worship of the state…Socialism is in its essence an attack not only on British enterprise, but upon the right of ordinary men and women to breathe freely without having a harsh, clammy, clumsy tyrannical hand clasped across their mouth and nostrils"  -Winston Churchill 

SRToolguy's picture

(post #97721, reply #15 of 31)

Gene, by in large, the JWBS-18 is not all that bad of a band saw for the price. What you need to do is check and see which model you have. They are now in the third generation of the new 18" bandsaws. The first version is underpowered and can have some serious vibration problems due to a poorly designed backbone. Changing the pulley will, in most cases, solve the power problem. The backbone problem cannot be fixed. In the second version known as the "New 18" the problem of the pulley and backbone was fixed but there were some quality control issues with the welding on the top of the backbone. If you have this version check on top of the saw looking for broken or separated welds. Re-welding is possible but you must make sure that the alignment is correct which is difficult to do without the correct jigs. Take it back, it is under a lifetime warranty. If you have the new "New 18" known as the JWBS-18X then the problems have been fixed, (at least those that we know of), and you probably just have a defective saw. It is covered under a lifetime warranty so take it back. The Powermatic 18 has pretty much been defect free as well as the Laguna so they would be my next choices should you decide you don't want to deal with the problematic Jet 18 anymore.

Sincerely;


The Tool Guy

Sincerely;

The Tool Guy

jc21's picture

(post #97721, reply #16 of 31)

Do you think the Jets need more reinforcement in the upper wheel housing? When bandsaw shopping earlier this fall I'd looked at the Jet 16". Nice fit and finish and excellent capacity for the price but to me the upper wheel wheel housing seemed to flex way too much. Other saws I looked at seemed to be much stiffer in this regard. Wondered if this could have any thing to do with the problems Gene is having?



"There can be no doubt that Socialism is inseparably interwoven with totalitarianism and the abject worship of the state…Socialism is in its essence an attack not only on British enterprise, but upon the right of ordinary men and women to breathe freely without having a harsh, clammy, clumsy tyrannical hand clasped across their mouth and nostrils"  -Winston Churchill 

shooting board's picture

(post #97721, reply #29 of 31)

My 16" Jet bandsaw has the problem of the upper wheel housing flexing as you discribed. Now as the second year rolled around I noticed a 1/2" long weld has snapped away between the wheels in the beam area of the frame holding the upper wheel section. At the Dallas / Ft. Worth woodworking show Dec. 9th 2006 I pointed out to a Jet vender a 18" Jet bandsaw missing the paint in this same location of his brand new saw. It was flexing to the point it lost the paint in that one weld spot. He was at a loss to say anything about it. As I looked for a replacement bandsaw in the show the Minimax came out the winner overall with the Laguna second place. I spent some time looking at the Laguna with the new lathe blank maker. It's a neat jig if you turn much. The cermic blocks still look like the best guides for wide blades.

AndyE's picture

(post #97721, reply #17 of 31)

I have an older, 1994 or so, jet band saw I bought used. It's a 2hp JBS-18. I haven't experienced much in the way of serious vibration but I do have a problem finding blades. It takes a 127 7/8" blade which i just broke down and ordered a bunch of. Cost me about twice what stock blades would have. Did you buy new or used? I have resawn 1/16" Butternut veneers from 9" boards with decent results. Can't wait to see what the 'correct' blade will do. It is possible that my saw was made in a different factory/country than one made today. Perhaps different standards are in effect these days.

Andy Elman

Andy
CowboyBill's picture

(post #97721, reply #18 of 31)

GeneS, with a budget of around $1000, you are limited to a handful of 18" bandsaws available, but it can be done, whether you choose to stick with what you have, or purchase another brand. My preference from personal experience & research IMHO, would be to see if you have the brand new upgrade to the Jet 18", the JWBS-18X, or do you have the model it is replacing, the JWBS-18B model? The new X model has a larger motor, greater resaw capacity (a full 12") & beefed up cast iron trunions. Both models feature true Carter style upper & lower bearings (not the euro style), cast iron (not aluminum) wheels, rack & pinion blade adjustment, large cast iron table, & a 2 year warranty, as compared to a 1 year warranty from most others in this price range. The Jet "B" model, is being heavily discounted by almost all dealers, at under $1000, while the new X model is a bit higher.


Another alternative many might consider, would be the Grizzly bandsaws, models G0513, G0514, G0506 & the brand new G0566. The G0513 is only a 17", not an 18" or larger bandsaw, but is a great value at $750. The big brother to this is the G0514, selling for $200 more, is a 19" model with the same 12" cutting capacity & motor, but a larger table & heavier. Both of these have aluminum, not cast iron wheels, however, & are supplied with euro type bearings, not my personal preference.


The Grizzly G0506, an 18" saw, has been in the line longer, but is a totally different bandsaw. It features a larger 26" by 19 3/4" cast iron table, cast iron wheels, a blade speed of 4610 FPM & weighs in at 537 LB shipping weight! Unfortunately, it has a reduced cutting capacity of 9 3/4", but may be a bit over your budget at $1,195.


The brand new 21" G0566, probably has been the most elusive bandsaw of all to see, or purchase! Advertised several months ago with full page ads in several magazines, yet is not shown in the current Grizzly 2004 or Christmas catalogs either. Amazingly, you can't even find it on Grizzly's own website! The G0566 is now available, on display in all 3 Griz showrooms, & can be ordered from their toll free order line as well. It has the most amazing specs for the price I have ever seen, but it may be overkill for your situation.  The 21" G0566 features a 14" cutting capacity, 3 HP motor, 20" throat capacity, huge 29 1/2" long cast iron table, a quick change blade release/tensioner lever (rare in larger bandsaws), micro adjusting geared tilting table with a handwheel, cast iron wheels, true ball bearing guides (not euro), magnetic safety switch, rack & pinion upper guide adjustment, two 4 inch dust ports, cast iron fence, 4,600 FPS blade speed, & a whopping 678 LB weight in the crate! Price is only $1395, $100 off the original price, only until December 31, 2004.


Hope all of the above helps some in your decision making.


Merry Christmas, Cowboy Bill.

GeneSwensen's picture

(post #97721, reply #24 of 31)

Have been out for a couple of days and am amazed at the number of responses.  This was my first post to the forum and I have to say I am pleasantly pleased with the help comments from everyone, THANKS to ALL for your time and suggestions.  I have read the bandsaw book and tried everything I could to get the saw working correctly.  I think I just got a lemon...


Regarding my Jet 18" bandsaw I received another shipment of parts today and still the same old vibration problem.  Jet is scheduling a tech to come out next week.  However, at this point I have become concerned with Jet's quality though tech support has been very helpful and supportive.  My compliments to all in Jet tech support.


I plan to make a decision by Monday and possible tomorrow on what to do.  I am currently leaning toward returning the Jet.  If I do then the question becomes which bandsaw to purchase.  The suggestions have been many but in my mind it comes down to the Delta X 14" model if I want to keep the budget around $1,000.  If I decide to blow the budget then I am leaning toward the Minimax 16",  I have received several positive comments on the Laguna product and gave Laguna serious consideration but since I live in Austin, TX and MM is located Austin, I like the idea of having a local dealer in case of problems, my experience with Jet as left me weary.  I have visited the MM show room and will be going back for a demo tomorrow or Monday to see the MM 16 in action.


If anyone has any comments on my decision or questions my reasoning let me know, you will not hurt my feelings.  I want to make sure I make a good decision on this one.  Other than the money I feel the MM will be the last bandsaw I will ever need to purchase.  Quality is always nice but never the least expensive.  If I have to spend time in the dog house at least I will have a great bandsaw to keep me company :)


Gene


 

jc21's picture

(post #97721, reply #25 of 31)

Don't think you'll go wrong with MM, especially an MM16. I bought their smallest bandsaw, the S14, earlier this fall sight unseen.  Pleased with saw and their sales and service/support. The salesman (Erik) answered all my questions (and I had many), no high pressure, no bs and even a followup to see how I was doing with the saw. Probrably a good time to buy as they have some good year end specials and I think you'll see some price increases next year due to the dollar vs. euro exchange rate.

Edited 12/9/2004 8:03 pm ET by jc


Edited 12/9/2004 8:04 pm ET by jc



"There can be no doubt that Socialism is inseparably interwoven with totalitarianism and the abject worship of the state…Socialism is in its essence an attack not only on British enterprise, but upon the right of ordinary men and women to breathe freely without having a harsh, clammy, clumsy tyrannical hand clasped across their mouth and nostrils"  -Winston Churchill 

GeneSwensen's picture

(post #97721, reply #26 of 31)

JC,


Glad to here you are happy with your MM.  I have been working with Mike but spoke with Erik today as Mike is at a trade show.  Like others I have been very impressed with the quality of help from the MM staff.


I agree on the price issue the dollar and cost of steel have been putting upward price pressure on these types of products.


Happy Holidays,


Gene

TomMGTC's picture

(post #97721, reply #19 of 31)

You should give some thought to old iron. Old cast iron saws can be pickd up for a fraction of the price of the newer machines. I picked up a circa 1918 32" Olney and Warrin bandsaw for 250.00 at an auction. Paid $300 to have the motor rewound from 550v to 220, $100 at carters for tires and epoxy, made some new guide blocks for the ones that were worn out, and bought a 200" 3/4"x 2 TPI blade at keen edge and that thing will resaw circles around my delta. Works great for well under 1k. Even if you had to buy a phase converter to run it you still aren't spending a huge amount of cash.


 


Tom


Douglasville, GA

Tom

Douglasville, GA

ROBERTOLIMA's picture

(post #97721, reply #21 of 31)

Has You read where your saw is made and how the wheels are balanced?
Research in late FWW.


Edited 12/8/2004 4:54 am ET by SPOCK

djcolorado's picture

(post #97721, reply #22 of 31)

Sounds like a quality control issue, as I have a Jet 18" that is about seven months old and runs very smoothly. I have been happy with the saw. The blade tracks on the bottom pully within about 1/8" of where it tracks on the top. I have played with the tracking on the center first one pulley and then the other pulley. The position seems to have a minor influence the amount of blade drift but not as much as other factors. The thickest material I have resawed is 4" cherry, but I had no problems with power.

I question whether the machine is manufactured with the same materials and same specification as it was designed. When it arrived the only problem I had with it was with the rack assembly that holds the upper guide bearings. When you tightened the locking knob, it would twist the entire assembly, twisting the guide bearings off plane with the blade. When I looked at the locking design it looked like a backing plate that was used in the assembly was too soft and deflected too easily. I discussed this with Jet and they sent me another backing plate which I doubled up with the existing one and solved the problem. I don't see that the design concept was a problem, and I'll bet some engineer would be pretty torqued if he saw the material the Jet factory actually selected to use for the plate.

MichaelPB's picture

(post #97721, reply #23 of 31)

Here are a couple of tests.


Taking the belt off was a good one, we know it isn't the motor or the lower wheel so the problem is in the upper wheel.


Give it a light spin so it turns around most of the way and when it comes to rest mark the inside with a magic marker.  Repeat a few times and see if it comes to rest at a random point, if it does, it is balanced.  If one side consitently ends up at the bottom, it isn't balanced.


The wheel can be balanced but not round so here is a test for that.  Again using the magic marker, find a spot where you can spin the wheel while slowly moving the marker towards the crown of the tire.  Imagine if it were egg shaped how the marker would hit the top and bottom of the egg but not the sides.  Move slowly and when you get close does it hit some spots and not others?


If neither of those detect anything, take the motor belt of the machine and put the blade on.  Peferably have someone else rotate it slowly and watch for anything odd.  It should go around with no poping, shifting, etc.


If that doesn't work there is one other thing that works.  Return it.

Peter36's picture

(post #97721, reply #27 of 31)

The last issue of Fine Woodworking has some very usefull information in it regarding bandsaws. My saw is a 1986 Jet total piece of junk. The wheels are out of plane by 3/8 of an inch, and it has a 1/3 horespower motor. The saw has a bit of vibration but not too much. I regularily resaw 5 1/2 wide hardwoods easily. No silly fence adjustments for drift, just track the blade properly and thats it. Using the correct blade is the biggest issue.  Having vented myself there, I would take your saw back and maybe look at the Laguna 14 SE. 12 inches of resaw, 2 hp Baldor motor. The only draw back is the 14 inch throat. Do you need a big saw for the throat or resaw capacity?