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Dovetail Table Saw Blade

woodman2263's picture

I am taking some advice from all the folks here and I am going to have my local sharpener make a dovetail tablesaw blade for me.  Question being, what blade should I take to him.  Should it be a 10" blade or a different blade?  I want to grind a 10º bevel on it.  Please let me know, I have a 5HP table saw and I don't want to have an accident by putting a blade on there that can't handle the RPM's.

Thanks again,


Rich14's picture

(post #100423, reply #1 of 4)


Sorry - I'm going to complicate your decision, as there are so many choices.

You can use your regular blade, as modifying it for dovetail work, surprisingly, will not affect it's usefullness in other ways.

Or mix and match the following options:

You can use a less expensive blade. Why modify a Forrest WWII? Just about any blade available for sale will do very good work for the light cutting involved.

You can use a smaller diameter blade, further reducing the expense. No need to use a 12" blade or a 10" blade on the saw. Use an 8" or even use a 7-1/4" circular saw blade.

You don't even need to use a carbide-tipped blade. A HSS blade will do just as well and stay sharp for a long time with the small amount of stress it will get. And if it gets dull, just replace it.


Gmoney's picture

(post #100423, reply #2 of 4)

i just had one ground to 12 degrees locally. he charges by the tooth and it's around 40 to 50 cents per tooth. i took in a 24 tooth rip blade by freud. it seems to work fine. so basically if cost is a consideration your looking at a dollar figure of one half the amount of teeth on the blade. $12 for a 24 tooth blade.

RickL's picture

(post #100423, reply #3 of 4)

A rip blade would be the logical choice and it could easily be an 8" as you don't need the full 3" capability or perhaps you do. You should look up the article in FWW on the subject.

KeithNewton's picture

(post #100423, reply #4 of 4)

Have you thought about just getting a stack dado set. Mine has all of the teeth on the outside blades already ground like you are wanting, except for the two rakers. You can just throw away all of that extra stuff in-between. Ha

If you are doing this grinding thing before giving the method a test drive, I would hold off on this part. I normally stop just shy of the line, and finish out with either a knife, or skew. After using the router to finish off the bottom cuts, there is usually just a 1/16" square in the corner, that are quick to get off with hand-tools.

It is a good idea to scribe / score the top of the cuts on the outside surfaces, sometimes, you can get a little chip-out above the line otherwise.

How many rpm's does your 5 hp saw turn? All I have ever seen have 3450 ~ motors, with a 1 /1 ratio.