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Biesemeyer fence jigs

cheakamus's picture

My 1950 Unisaw recently acquired a Biesemeyer fence, so we're all set to jump into the future (anyone got any ideas what to do with an old Jetlock?). Anyway, one of the reasons I chose a Biesemeyer over the Delta is the supposed ease of attaching all sorts of jigs. So far, I've attached a cut-off block a few times, using a 24" bar clamp (which is okay as far as it goes, but somewhat awkward if you're in a hurry). Now I'd like to add a vertical fence, a "sacrificial fence," perhaps a tenoning jig, etc. I know I can make an "h" frame that wraps the Biesemeyer, but how do I secure the "h" frame so it doesn't slip backward and forward along the fence? With all the Biesemeyers out there, I figured there'd be a pretty well-established way to do this, but to my surprise, I came up with very little, either on this site or on Google. So, before I go drilling large holes through my Biesemeyer (one suggestion I found), does anyone know of any web sites, magazine articles, etc. that address this subject? BTW, I know Delta/Biesemeyer made a "sacrificial fence" and a cut-off block, and they look very nice, but I don't want to even inquire about the price. I'm looking for something I can make myself. It also occurred to me I might mount some kind of extruded aluminum channel to the top surface of the Biesemeyer (as long as it didn't rise above the two MDF side panels) to attach jigs to. Anone know of such a system?

JMeirhaeghe's picture

(post #94986, reply #1 of 6)

 I Love My Biesemeyer Fence too much to drill it full of holes!


 I made a sacrifical fence out of Hard maple,using the h type method your talking about. On the back side of the  Maple h  fence,I added a quick release toggle clamp to each end.  I can put it on or take it off in about 30 seconds or less.


 I made the Blade side of the maple fence the full length of the bies, then made the back side about 6" shorter. 3 inches off each end so the Toggel clamps could clamp directly to the Bies, fence. It's really quite simple to make.  Good Luck

rrpm1's picture

(post #94986, reply #2 of 6)

You might want to take a look at Krumy's site....some good ideas..


http://www2.fwi.com/~krumy/

 

cheakamus's picture

(post #94986, reply #3 of 6)

Thanks BG, I've bookmarked it. Too many good ideas to absorb all at once!

jase's picture

(post #94986, reply #6 of 6)

The link you provided shows a router table with a jack for a router lift. It took me a while to realize the router is a Craftsman with a rack & pinion height adjustment. Could you use, or has someone come up with, a jack or some other improvised system to lift a fixed base router with something other than a $100 lift? Maybe this belongs in a new thread.

Jase--Is there a better way?

Jase--Is there a better way?
mbosadchuk's picture

(post #94986, reply #4 of 6)

Here is what I did to attach a wood plate into the top channel of my Biesemeyer type fence.  I used the wood plate as a base for board buddies but I could use other wood plates similarly located as the start of other jigs.


BUT it does start with drilling 3 holes, widely spaced, front to back.  in the top channel surface of the fence.


Mill a piece of wood that will slide into the fence cavity with a very snug friction fit.


Mark the wood at the locations of the holes previously drilled.


Install 1/4 x 20 threaded metal inserts at the marked locations in  the wood member


Slide the wood member back into the fence cavity, center the insert locations at the fence holes drilled; add a bit of expoxy glue between the wood and fence at the hole locations (without getting the glue into the inserts), rear of the fence wood/metal contact points. Let set.


Screw some pieces of 1/4 x20 threaded material/cutoff bolts with sharpened ends sticking up.  Use those sharpened ends of the three bolts to locate the drill locations on the wood baseplate to be located on top of the fence.  Drill 1/4 x20 or very slightly larger holes at these locations in the wood plate. Countersink the top of these holes so that the 1/4 x 20 bolts going into the threaded inserts are below the top surface of this wood plate,  drop a thin metal washer into the countersink hole. (for board buddies I wanted this wood plate to be as thin as possible - a bit under 1/2").  Use this first wood plate as a template for other wood bases serving as the starting point for othe jigs.


I also was surprised to not find already published, relatively "neat and tidy" solutions that did not distort the integrity of the fence.

rslatm's picture

(post #94986, reply #5 of 6)

There's t-track channel available from Rocklers and such that you can add to your fence. You should get Sandor's (not gonna try his last name) book on jigs from Taunton Press for other ideas.  Why does it matter if it goes higher than the sides? Just do it and improvise as you go along. I find the Bis to be more flexible than the Unifence in the jig department by far.