NEW! Faster Search Option

Push stick problems

Push stick problems (post #161981)

AlexMellor on Thu, 02/17/2011 - 12:31 (updated 02/17/11 - 02:37)

New To Woodworking

I am having real problems using a push stick on a tablesaw.

If I guide the piece through the cut using my hands, I am able to keep even pressure down and towards the fence and the cut turns out great. However, when I move to a push stick I have real problems maintaining pressure and subsequently the piece starts to move away from the rip fence, affecting the cut.

Any thoughts or advice on technique, using a different kind of push stick etc? This is really frustrating me and clearly it's not safe to abandon the use of push sticks completely.

Hi Alex , A few (post #161981, reply #1 of 6)

by oldusty in reply to AlexMellor [original] on Thu, 02/17/2011 - 13:52

Hi Alex ,

A few things come to mind here . First off what does your push stick look like ?

It sounds like the problem is when you switch from hand feed to push stick , it may be you are either a little to close to the fence with the push stick or your natural tendency may be to push away from the fence without realizing it now that you are only using one hand to push ?

Think about the direction I set my power feeder towards the shaper fence , it is actually skewed a tad , with the front being closer to the fence then the back feed roller , that is how I direct the pressure on stock as I feed it through the TS .

hope this helps dusty

Alex: I notice this (post #161981, reply #2 of 6)

by DonStephan in reply to AlexMellor [original] on Thu, 02/17/2011 - 18:03

Alex:

I notice this happening all the time. My suspicion is that friction with the blade tends to pull the piece away from the fence. When pushing by hand I am simulating the setup of the mentioned power feeder - towards the back of the saw and towards the fence. When using a push stick it is not possible to also push towards the fence.

You can use a feather board to push towards the fence.

I've always suspected that a well adjusted splitter or riving knife would keep the stock tight against the fence.

I don't use a splitter but (post #161981, reply #4 of 6)

by oldusty in reply to DonStephan [original] on Fri, 02/18/2011 - 07:28

I don't use a splitter but if the piece is long enough I continue to push it against the fence with the hand that is not pushing the stick if that helps any .

I think this is a matter of technique and training and being aware of the natural tendency for the stick to come a way from the fence .

regards dusty

sticks vs. blocks (post #161981, reply #3 of 6)

by RalphBarker in reply to AlexMellor [original] on Fri, 02/18/2011 - 07:27

My push sticks are more like blocks with handles on them. That is, pieces varying in width and about 8-10 inches long, used flat on the stock with a trailing lip to catch the end of the stock. I glue rubber material to the bottom side, as well, to increase grip on the stock, and raised handles keep fingers well away from the blade.

In contrast, with a traditional bird's-beak push stick, if the stick placement is right of center, the far end of the stock will naturally tend to move to the left, away from the fence.

Push sticks (post #161981, reply #5 of 6)

by bduffin104 in reply to AlexMellor [original] on Fri, 02/18/2011 - 08:35

I make my push sticks about six at a time from 1/2" plywood. The style I use allows me to push down and twist the stock against the fence as well as pushing it forward.

There is a natural tendacy for the stock to want to drift away from the fence but should only be a problem with the last 18" of a rip. Just use another stick with the left and ushing the side off the rip against the fence. You still will have to just push through the last 6" or so. Do all you side pressure and feather board settups in front of the blade. I would be very dangerous to reach beyond the blade to push it the rip against the fence.

This style of push stick works with the jointer too.

Bret

Preview	Attachment	Size
	push_stick.jpg	55.01 KB

Thanks all (post #161981, reply #6 of 6)

by AlexMellor in reply to AlexMellor [original] on Fri, 02/18/2011 - 13:34

Thanks everyone for your responses.

Ralph I suspect your solution would work better for longer boards since a longer / larger push stick would provide more surface area to apply pressure downward and towards the fence. I'll try it out.

I also need to make sure I'm using featherboards whenever possible to reduce travel of the piece away from the fence. I haven't done this consistently in the past.