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Just wondering what the best tool for the job is. I'm in the process of attaching the top of my bookcase so I can nail on the back.. I am using caribou pine panel boards for the back.
The 3/4" thick top requires a 1/4" stopped rabbet. The sides of the bookcase already have a 1/4" deep X 1/4 wide rabbet on the back to recieve the boards.
I thought this would be real easy using the router table. The top of the bookcase measures 11 1/4" deep X 36" in length.
For some unknown reason the 1/4" freud straight bit got "caught up", snagged during the middle of the practice cut. I set the height of the bit 1/8". (figure it's easier on the 1/4" bit if I make the cut in 2 stages) The router fence was adjusted to make a 1/4" wide rabbet. Didn't think that would pose any problem. I'm pushing the wood right to left. Does grain direction matter when using a router table to make a stopped rabbet? I reversed the workpiece and was able to make the cut. Sometimes it's awefully difficult to see what direction the grain is running. I don't want to ruin my workpiece. So I am looking for an alternative method. I bet I could do this easily with a rabbet plane.
Maybe it's best if I just attach a fence to my plunge router and make the cut using my 1/4" straight bit.
One other ? When plunge routing ( cutting a stopped dado for a shelf) do you have to turn off the router before pulling out of the cut? I usually just release the lock lever to pull out of the cut when I get to the end of my cut and then turn off the router. I have a feeling that's not the right thing to do. I'm so used to using a fixed router. I don't have much experience at all using a plunge router. I also need a few pointers on how to properly set a plunge router to the right depth.
Edited 10/17/2008 10:59 pm by Wanda200