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Old Joints, glueing
I always try to glue soon after cutting a joint. I've heard that the joints are stronger that way. I am facing the need to glue up pieces where the joints are about 3 mionths old. Material is pine, I usually use PVA adhesive. Is there any step I should take to improve bond? Will another glue work better? Is the old trueism correct in the first place? Why?
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I don't think 3 months of (post #166981, reply #1 of 4)
I don't think 3 months of indoor waiting to be glued will be a problem. I wouild check the fit and proceed as usual.
If it were outdoors and weathering that might be an issue.
Test your finish on scrap, FIRST, or risk having to scrap your finish.
one of the PW editors always (post #166981, reply #2 of 4)
one of the PW editors always encourages gluing "fresh" wood. His belief is that the surface of wood oxidizes when exposed to air. I think he recommends light sanding of previously milled surfaces as if the oxidation would be an extremely thin layer. Can't recall seeing this discussed elsewhere.
Yep Don's Got it (post #166981, reply #3 of 4)
Sanding , carefully to preserve the crisp edges of your joints, would be the way to go. Won't take off enough wood fibers to loosen the joint but will freshen the joint faces.
I did quite a study of glues and gluing techniques when I was studying this fine craft and found it makes a difference in my test samples taken to failure. Simple lap joints, not structural, so all the stress was on the glue line. My notes say I was looking at all this in around April 2006. I was hoping to find a link but not yet.
Sanding brakes down the surface tension and allows the glue to flow out across the surface and to soak further into the wood.
For instance you can test it yourself: take two samples of your wood, one cut some time ago and another fresh cut or at least fresh sanded and put a drop of water on theme both. The fresh one will flow out and the other will bead up as if you had put Simonize car wax on it..
The independently done article that got us thinking about this demonstrates this and I seem to remember they got bead up after only a couple of days after being cut.
Ohp hang on . . . here's something :
http://forums.finewoodworking.com/fine-w...
roc
Give me six hours to chop down a tree and I will spend the first four sharpening the axe. Abraham Lincoln ( 54° shaves )
For sanding in the joints . . . (post #166981, reply #4 of 4)
http://www.amazon.com/EXCEL-SANDING-STIC...
http://www.amazon.com/Zona-Tool-Company-...
I have some others that are basically like small thin plastic strips, about the size of point files for old car distributors, with sanding grit imbedded in them. I think I got them at an automotive supply or at Radio Shack. I don't recall and could not find them on line yet. they are kind of flexy but get into thin places like thin dovetails that the others can not. Long lasting.
You know . . . could have been a jewelry supply in Boulder. CO or Sante Fe, NM
Hmmmmm no big deal I suppose.
roc
Give me six hours to chop down a tree and I will spend the first four sharpening the axe. Abraham Lincoln ( 54° shaves )