I need to round over the edge of a piece of acryclic to remove the sharp edge. Am looking for advice on feed/speed/technique for this.
Also, can anybody suggest an adhesive for gluing acrylic to wood?
Glue : contact cement; you know . . . the stuff where you put one coat on each surface, let ti dry a while and then put them together. The glue stays rubbery and allows the two dissimilar materials to expand and contract (the wood) or not. The plastic will move a little too but it is temperature dependent not humidity dependent.
Routing : I have never routed plastic but you want the slowest speed (and them some) and it would be worth honing a new bit extra sharp. You may even want to look into getting a milling bit from a machine shop supply designed for milling plastic. They are extra sharp. Any dullness and the bit is going to heat the plastic and then you got a real problem.
I would definitely do a test pass or two on some long scraps.
I think from there to get a glossy surface you can heat the edge briefly with a flame but again I have never tried it.
If you want facts for grind angles (proper bits for cutting plastic ) and how fast to turn the bits for best results look here:
Give me six hours to chop down a tree and I will spend the first four sharpening the axe. Abraham Lincoln ( 54° shaves )
To round over there are files designed for plastic - or a router with a round over bit. For adhesive as roc says contact cement - for a stronger bond that's a glue - use epoxy
I could easily be in error here, not having tried it , but as I understand it epoxy does not stick well to plastic. The best plastic to plastic glue is one that chemicaly melts them together.
So I'd say give that one a test or two before going for the finishline. I know people epoxy repairs onto fiber glass etc but they are roughening the heck out of the surface and there are the glass fibers there to get a hold of by the epoxy.
For plastic to plastic I use the stuff the plexi glass manufacturers sell over the counter - it's called "plastruct"; for welding / bonding acrylic, lucite, plexi, etc. I know those guys have better stuff they use as pros but I can't find out the brand - they ain't talking. Maybe someone here knows and could tell us. Anyway for the acrylic to wood question....... is why I said epoxy. And yes I would rough up the surface some - just with some 400 paper - but not so much to distort or badly cloud the plastic.
of plastic products in various structural shapes. They sell a variety of glues: plastic weld, bondene, weldene, etc. Check their web site plastruct dot com
Old bean . . .
you might want to go to the source on this one
you will see a totally white window; just use the slider and page down; you will start to see text.
page down to page 30
This is from a most excellent book on epoxy and the uses of the nasty poisonous stuff.
The people who provide the book are these guys
An excellent company.
I posted a screen shot. I couldn't cut and paste; the book is a PDF and it wouldn't let me.
Like I said not my experience just what I came across during one of my regular mad forays into woodworking from my easy chair.
It's what I do.
Not a problem to round over, but bevels are more typical.
Either is done on the router table with an anticlimb cut.
Stay = to or <3/16" square waste/pass.
Wet sand if a dressy edge is required.
Finish @ or ~ 4oo grit. SIC or Aluminum Oxide, both ok.
I do not use adhesives for AC to wood or any other substrate.
Methylene Chloride is standard (AC to AC) but toxic.
I use hardware.
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