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Lock-Rabbet for drawer sides with router table - what jig or technique??

Skyeboat's picture

My next  "learning opportunity".  I'm building  my first cabinet using "traditional kitchen cabinet" techniques (ala Tolpin).  I'm trying my hand at "lock-rabbet" joints for the drawers using my router table.  On my first drawer I had a bit of a problem when routing the sides (I.e. with the drawer side held vertically) on the router table.  I wasn't using any jig of any kind ... a bit scary and a bit of a bust on the quality.  The *slightest* unevenness between the router table and the router insert causes the drawer side to catch a bit and it shows in the joint.  I've leveled the table as best I can with a straightedge and feeler gauge to about .001 - .002" and it comes out "okay" but it's still a little scary.


Any advice on technique / jigs would be greatly appreciated!

RalphBarker's picture

options (post #162071, reply #1 of 9)

There are several things you can try to improve the consistency of the cuts on vertical pieces:

1. taller fence for better vertical support,

2. vertical push block - an L-shaped push block that both keepts the stock against the fence and maintains the 90° to the table, while pushing the trailing edge of the stock, (or use a horizontal feather board without the push block),

3. cut the joint on wider stock, and then rip to the proper drawer width.

Skyeboat's picture

Thanks Ralph.  I think I'm (post #162071, reply #3 of 9)

Thanks Ralph.  I think I'm going to try all three of your suggestions on my next drawer.  #3 is a very good idea and one I wouldn't probably have conjured up on my own.  I think a big part of my problem was that the drawer I was building was very shallow (4") so the side was a bit wobbly going through vertically!  Do you by any chance have a photo or a pointer to a photo for the vertical push block you're suggesting?


 

Skyeboat's picture

I think I found one on this (post #162071, reply #5 of 9)

I think I found one on this forum ... is this what you mean?

http://forums.finewoodworking.com/fine-w...

Thanks again

RalphBarker's picture

Chris's jig/push-block (post #162071, reply #7 of 9)

I was thinking simpler, but the jig Chris made is nicer. If you think 4" sides were wobbly, you should watch people trying to cut LM joints on 3/4" slats for tool chest drwawers.  ;-)

BruceS's picture

Routing vertical (post #162071, reply #2 of 9)

The vertical piece can be easily be routed if you have a tenoning jig,  provided your miter slot is close enough.  But care must taken to avoid the cast iron with the router bit.  ;-)

Work Safe,  Count to 10 when your done for the day !!

Bruce S. 

 

Skyeboat's picture

Thanks for the suggestion.  (post #162071, reply #4 of 9)

Thanks for the suggestion.  Unfortunately I don't have a tenoning jig at this point but I'll keep it in mind if I can't solve the problem using Ralph's suggestions.

BruceS's picture

Skyeboat ?    As in Bonnie (post #162071, reply #6 of 9)

Skyeboat ?    As in Bonnie Prince Charlie ?

Work Safe,  Count to 10 when your done for the day !!

Bruce S. 

 

Skyeboat's picture

One and the same!  We named (post #162071, reply #8 of 9)

One and the same!  We named our dog Skye as well.

BruceS's picture

Skye Boat Song,  Probably my (post #162071, reply #9 of 9)

Skye Boat Song,  Probably my most favorite slow air.

Edit:  How could I forget   Bells of Dumblane !  Love it too,  So many   Lord Lovets Lament. and on and on.

I was in Pipe bands for about 47 years till by legs and back couldn't take the beating of carrying a snare drum.  That was a tough thing to give up.   But parades in July were a killer, almost, but many more would have succeeded .

Work Safe,  Count to 10 when your done for the day !!

Bruce S.