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Lock-Rabbet for drawer sides with router table - what jig or technique??
Lock-Rabbet for drawer sides with router table - what jig or technique?? (post #162071)
My next "learning opportunity". I'm building my first cabinet using "traditional kitchen cabinet" techniques (ala Tolpin). I'm trying my hand at "lock-rabbet" joints for the drawers using my router table. On my first drawer I had a bit of a problem when routing the sides (I.e. with the drawer side held vertically) on the router table. I wasn't using any jig of any kind ... a bit scary and a bit of a bust on the quality. The *slightest* unevenness between the router table and the router insert causes the drawer side to catch a bit and it shows in the joint. I've leveled the table as best I can with a straightedge and feeler gauge to about .001 - .002" and it comes out "okay" but it's still a little scary.
Any advice on technique / jigs would be greatly appreciated!



options (post #162071, reply #1 of 9)
There are several things you can try to improve the consistency of the cuts on vertical pieces:
1. taller fence for better vertical support,
2. vertical push block - an L-shaped push block that both keepts the stock against the fence and maintains the 90° to the table, while pushing the trailing edge of the stock, (or use a horizontal feather board without the push block),
3. cut the joint on wider stock, and then rip to the proper drawer width.
Thanks Ralph. I think I'm (post #162071, reply #3 of 9)
Thanks Ralph. I think I'm going to try all three of your suggestions on my next drawer. #3 is a very good idea and one I wouldn't probably have conjured up on my own. I think a big part of my problem was that the drawer I was building was very shallow (4") so the side was a bit wobbly going through vertically! Do you by any chance have a photo or a pointer to a photo for the vertical push block you're suggesting?
I think I found one on this (post #162071, reply #5 of 9)
I think I found one on this forum ... is this what you mean?
http://forums.finewoodworking.com/fine-w...
Thanks again
Chris's jig/push-block (post #162071, reply #7 of 9)
I was thinking simpler, but the jig Chris made is nicer. If you think 4" sides were wobbly, you should watch people trying to cut LM joints on 3/4" slats for tool chest drwawers. ;-)
Routing vertical (post #162071, reply #2 of 9)
The vertical piece can be easily be routed if you have a tenoning jig, provided your miter slot is close enough. But care must taken to avoid the cast iron with the router bit. ;-)
Work Safe, Count to 10 when your done for the day !!
Bruce S.
Thanks for the suggestion. (post #162071, reply #4 of 9)
Thanks for the suggestion. Unfortunately I don't have a tenoning jig at this point but I'll keep it in mind if I can't solve the problem using Ralph's suggestions.
Skyeboat ? As in Bonnie (post #162071, reply #6 of 9)
Skyeboat ? As in Bonnie Prince Charlie ?
Work Safe, Count to 10 when your done for the day !!
Bruce S.
One and the same! We named (post #162071, reply #8 of 9)
One and the same! We named our dog Skye as well.
Skye Boat Song, Probably my (post #162071, reply #9 of 9)
Skye Boat Song, Probably my most favorite slow air.
Edit: How could I forget Bells of Dumblane ! Love it too, So many Lord Lovets Lament. and on and on.
I was in Pipe bands for about 47 years till by legs and back couldn't take the beating of carrying a snare drum. That was a tough thing to give up. But parades in July were a killer, almost, but many more would have succeeded .
Work Safe, Count to 10 when your done for the day !!
Bruce S.