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Old Stanley Chisels
I am trying to put together a set of Stanley 720 chisels. Can anyone help with info on what sizes were made and markings, patent dates, pictures etc. I can find very little about them on the web. I am also interested in 740s and 750s but mostly in the 720s. Will a 20 degree angle hold up to paring in hardwoods (maple, walnut, and cherry), or should I go with a 25 degree on the old chisels?
Also, how do you fit the handles to seat in the sockets?
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(post #103353, reply #1 of 8)
I have a book by John Walter, Antique & Collectible STANLEY TOOLS -A Guide to Identify and Value-. Published by The Tool Merchant.(1990 second edition.) The following info is from it, and should take care of some of your questions. I don't know if there are more current editions around.
720 Socket Chisel
Manufactured: 1930 to 1969
Sizes: 1/4, 3/8, 1/2, 3/4, 1, 1-1/4, 1-1/2 inch widths
Construction: Steel shank, hickory handle
Finish: Lacquered
Uses: General purpose chisels
Average Price: $5 to $10 (Those are the 1990 prices.)
740
1930 to 1955
1/8, 1/4, 3/8, 1/2, 5/8, 3/4, 1, 1-1/4, 1-1/2, 2
750
1930 to 1969
1/4, 3/8, 1/2, 5/8, 3/4, 7/8, 1, 1-1/4, 1-1/2, 1-3/4, 2
(post #103353, reply #2 of 8)
Also, how do you fit the handles to seat in the sockets?
***********
When I re-hilted an old Witherby chisel, I measured the depth of the socket, then the diameter of the bottom, the diameter of the top and turned to those specs plus a scosh on my lathe.
Good luck!
Leon Jester, Roanoke VA
(post #103353, reply #3 of 8)
What is the difference between the 720, 740 and 750 chisels? Different steel? Different levels of quality? Which do people prefer?
(post #103353, reply #4 of 8)
The 720, 740 and 750 chisels are series that vary by length going from the longest to the shortest respectively. The 720's are firmer length with the 750's being butt chisels. I think of the 740's as bench or cabinet chisels. I think the 740's have the best balance but think the 720's are cool because of their length. As far as I can tell, the steel in all is the same, although some folks tout the ones with the "sweetheart logo".
One other thing. These chisels have either leather washers on the handles for a cap for use with a wooden mallet or have a steel cap on the end of the handle for striking with a metal hammer. The metal capped ones are called everlast or everlasting and have a nice fusiform tapered handle.
If you are going to use them, I think it comes down to personal preference. As for collecting, I am no expert. I would like to hear from some folks who are though. Information on the web is actually pretty scarce. Here is one excellent link I found.
http://users.ev1.net/~gmuster/TypeStudy/everlastchisels.htm
A tip for you:
I found another way to fit the handles to the sockets that I really like since I am not a very good lather. What works for me is to use dry graphite powder (you can find it at the key making counter at hardware stores). Put a little of the powder in the socket and shake it around with your finger over the socket. Dump out the excess in a tray so you can reload when necessary. Make a small mark on the upper part of the handle lightly with a pencil so you can align it with the top of the chisel each time you put the handle in. When you remove the handle the graphite will mark the tapered peg part of the handle where it is making contact with the socket. Using a very sharp chisel as a scraper simply scrape off the graphite marks. This will make a small, fine wood shaving each time. Keep repeating this until the upper edge of the socket begins to make a ring around the peg as it seats. Gently scrape the ring smooth as well and you will see the handle beginning to seat into the socket. I stop when only about an eighth to a quarter of an inch is left on the tapered peg. This allows for expansion and contraction of the wood. If you over do it and the handle shrinks, it will be too loose. I then lacquer the peg lightly. Let it dry, insert it into the socket, hold the shank and give the chisel handle a couple of good firm whacks with a carver's mallet and voila!
Edited 4/19/2006 9:53 am ET by woodripper
(post #103353, reply #5 of 8)
Woodripper,
Although I did not ask the question, I often wondered what the different Stanley number designations meant also. Thanks..
Corrections to previous posters info about 750 chisels (post #103353, reply #6 of 8)
corrections to jimithing (post #103353, reply #7 of 8)
New 740s were/are indeed longer than 750s. 720s being the longest. I have enough of all three which show that to be true. And, that is consistent with John Walters' info.
The letters SW in a heart were used in 1920 in celebration of the merger of the Stanley Rule and Level Company into the larger Stanley Works manufacturing company. The SW stood for Stanley Works, but the logo became known as the sweatheart logo. Whether it was used to honor William Hart, the head of the company for a lengthy time, may be conjecture as it seems to be repeated among some woodworkers with no reference to any Stanley documentation of such.
750s, according to John Walters -- considered one of, if not the foremost expert on Stanley tools (his book sells routinely for 150 to 250 bucks) -- were "butt" chisels and were 9 and 1/2 to 10 and 1/4 inches long, depending on the width. I just double checked one of my "new old stock" 750s in its original Stanley box. Says "butt chisel" on the box.
740s, according to Walters, were known as "pocket" chisels and were 12 to 12 and 1/2 inches long depending on width.
720s, according to Walters, were known as "firmer" chisels and were 13 to 15 inches long.
750s and 720s were made from 1930 to 1969. 740s were only made from 1930 to 1955.
The handles of all three models were hickory.
Older ones were marked on the socket with the following 3 lines
Stanley, No. 750 (or 720 or 740), Made in the USA
The last number of years of their being manufactured, only 750s and 720s were made, but had only two lines, leaving the No. 750/720 line off. So, a longer chisel (a 720) without the number on it, when used and sharpened a lot could be as short as a 750 and no one would know whether it was orginally a 720 length or 750 length. Didn't make a lot of difference as they were the same quality with only the original length being the difference.
Alan - planesaw
corrections to jimithing (post #103353, reply #8 of 8)
New 740s were/are indeed longer than 750s. 720s being the longest. I have enough of all three which show that to be true. And, that is consistent with John Walters' info.
The letters SW in a heart were used in 1920 in celebration of the merger of the Stanley Rule and Level Company into the larger Stanley Works manufacturing company. The SW stood for Stanley Works, but the logo became known as the sweatheart logo. Whether it was used to honor William Hart, the head of the company for a lengthy time, may be conjecture as it seems to be repeated among some woodworkers with no reference to any Stanley documentation of such.
750s, according to John Walters -- considered one of, if not the foremost expert on Stanley tools (his book sells routinely for 150 to 250 bucks) -- were "butt" chisels and were 9 and 1/2 to 10 and 1/4 inches long, depending on the width. I just double checked one of my "new old stock" 750s in its original Stanley box. Says "butt chisel" on the box.
740s, according to Walters, were known as "pocket" chisels and were 12 to 12 and 1/2 inches long depending on width.
720s, according to Walters, were known as "firmer" chisels and were 13 to 15 inches long.
750s and 720s were made from 1930 to 1969. 740s were only made from 1930 to 1955.
The handles of all three models were hickory.
Older ones were marked on the socket with the following 3 lines
Stanley, No. 750 (or 720 or 740), Made in the USA
The last number of years of their being manufactured, only 750s and 720s were made, but had only two lines, leaving the No. 750/720 line off. So, a longer chisel (a 720) without the number on it, when used and sharpened a lot could be as short as a 750 and no one would know whether it was orginally a 720 length or 750 length. Didn't make a lot of difference as they were the same quality with only the original length being the difference.
Alan - planesaw