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old planes
I have several older planes that I'm thinking of restoring. These aren't in terribly bad shape, but the soles need flattened, and a general cleaning all over. the handles need sanded and refinished,etc, but overall, they're not too bad. I started on the Hudson #4 which has the worse sole, and soon found out that flattening this thing will kill the arms & shoulders.. how do most of you fellows flatten sloes that are in need of LOTS of work? I use sandpaper to sharpen my chisles and irons, but this is taking waaaaaay too long to get 'er down evenly flat. I'm all ears....
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There are no short cuts. (post #151656, reply #1 of 8)
You have to see this as a labour of love. You may be doing all the things I list below but if even one of them is new to you, it may help.
1. Don't try and do it all at once. Spread the job over several evenings.
2. Make sure you have some good music going.
3. Start with a really coarse paper. I use P60.
4. Use a broad felt tip marker to draw a grid on the sole. This enables you to check progress.
5. Stay with the coarse paper until you are removing the grid evenly, except for the ink caught in the grooves caused by coarse grinding.These grooves do not need to be removed.
6. Work your way up the sandpaper grades. Spend just enough time with each one to remove the scratches made by the previous grade.
7. Change paper often. When you don't feel it cutting - it isn't cutting.
Once you've flattened the sole the rest is comparatively easy.
Good luck.
Keep your paper clean: use a (post #151656, reply #2 of 8)
Keep your paper clean: use a shop-vac to remove the swarf that clogs the paper and keeps it from cutting.
I do everything you (post #151656, reply #3 of 8)
I do everything you listed,except the 1st one... even..no, especially the music..gotta have it !! I do, however ,try to remove all scratches from previous paper,but I notice that the 60 grit leaves canyons in the steel that's very hard to remove.... guess I'll be flattening for a while longer... Thanks, Pal.....
Are you sure that the canyons (post #151656, reply #5 of 8)
Are you sure that the canyons are caused by the paper? On my planes they are usually the marks of cheap and nasty grinding.
It is *is* the paper then I suggest you change brands. Grit is coming off the paper!
I had this happen with no-name paper bought by the metre. Grit came off the paper and did nasty things to the wood I was sanding. Haven't had it happen since I began buying branded, packaged paper (Wolfcraft)
The slight downside is that you have to buy the full 5 metres. The upside is that you rarely run out of paper at awkward times.
the sole on this plane was (post #151656, reply #7 of 8)
the sole on this plane was abused by some previous owner(s), looked as tho they tried to plane boards with nails in 'em.. the sandpaper I use is borg-bought 3M...except for grits above 320... those are bought at my local auto parts store..expensive, but the only place around here to buy 600-2000 grit wet/dry....
I wouldn't worry too much (post #151656, reply #8 of 8)
I wouldn't worry too much about lengthwise scratches in the sole. After all the objective is to present an overall flat surface to the wood. I would worry about removing too much metal - you risk the sole bending from the stresses imposed by the blade.
Refering to your #2. Keeping (post #151656, reply #4 of 8)
Refering to your #2. Keeping stroke count to rock tempo will get'r done quicker, though more tiring. Waltz tempo is more my speed.
Work Safe, Count to 10 when your done for the day !!
Bruce S.
actually, I listen to (post #151656, reply #6 of 8)
actually, I listen to Southern Gospel... and Southern Rock... strange bedfellows to be sure,but I get your drift.... ; )