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Nobex miter saw blade direction

forrestb's picture

I gave away my 30 year-old Sear's miter saw and purchased a Nobex Champion based on a recommendation nad a newly found need for very accurate angle cuts.  Other than not very straightforward assembly instructions, they were quite adamant (even used the only "!" in the literature) to be sure that the blade teeth point for a push cutting stroke.  The saw is constructed similar to a bow saw but my pleasant experiences with a Japanese-styled saw that cuts on the pull lead me to think that this Nobex thin blade might benefit if installed for a pull cutting action.

I would appreciate anyone's comments - especially if you have tried this.

Thanks

forrestb

hammer1's picture

It's a little like using a (post #148751, reply #1 of 4)

It's a little like using a bench hook, the fence keeps the workpiece from moving with the saw on the cut stroke. I suppose you could clamp the work and reverse the blade. If the work moves around, there goes your "accuracy" and it might cause the blade to bind, maybe even kink. You should also make sure the blade isn't able to contact any metal on the kerf track, just a kiss will hurt the sharpness.

Beat it to fit / Paint it to match

RalphBarker's picture

Remember, too, that with the (post #148751, reply #2 of 4)

Remember, too, that with the saw blade held at both ends in the frame, a push stroke tensions the bade against the front pin, accomplishing the same objective as the pull stroke on an unframed Japanese saw.

davcefai's picture

I wouldn't even try it. As (post #148751, reply #3 of 4)

I wouldn't even try it. As hammer1 states these saws are designed for push. If you pull your workpiece is going to move. On the push stroke the wood wppears to "self centre" to some degree.

OTOH your mileage may vary!

flairwoodworks's picture

Push! (post #148751, reply #4 of 4)

I dealt with this issue two days ago with a customer at LV.  He thought that because it was a Japanese blade, it should be installed on the pull stroke.  However, there is a little protrusion on the casting of the handle that lines up with the two slots in the blade that prevent this.  Even the Japanese blade should be installed on the push stroke with this type of saw.  The blade is held under tension by the frame, as someone else noted.

I was impressed by the clean and straight cut it left with both the Japanese and standard Western blades, even in a hard maple 1x4.

Chris @ www.flairwoodworks.com
and http://flairwoodworks.wordpress.com

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