NEW! Faster Search Option

Loading

no.5 vs. no.62 lie nielsen jack planes which is beter?

foxrocks4life08's picture

Hey guys just a low angle vs. regular 45degree angle frog. i was thinking about geting a lie nielsen #5 jack plane or a #62 low angle jack plane. i figured u could just get a high angle blade and its pritty much a 45degree plane but im not realy sure which is beter so maybe some opinions would help and is the lie nielsen low angle block plane so much beter then a stanley no.661/2? i would love to see your opinions thanks. -chris

http://www.lie-nielsen.com/catalog.php?grp=1247  low angle

http://www.lie-nielsen.com/catalog.php?grp=1262   no. 5

http://www.lie-nielsen.com/catalog.php?grp=1221 low angle block

RalphBarker's picture

depends (post #151416, reply #1 of 9)

It depends, I think, on how you plan to use the plane. I just ordered a low-angle jack with "hotdog" and a spare iron. My primary motivation is to use it with a shooting board, where the size, heft and low angle will be helpful. The spare itron will  be sharpened with a camber for normal "jack" usage.

DavidWeaver's picture

It really depends on what you (post #151416, reply #2 of 9)

It really depends on what you like.

I prefer not to use low angle bevel up planes unless I need to (I have some, though), and it's rare that I need to. Mine usually spend time in the box.

If this plane is going to be used as a jack plane, I would definitely prefer the #5, because it will be easier to camber the blade and the things that a #62 really excels at (closing the mouth really tightly and preventing tearout, or easily adjusting the angle of attack with a steeper microbevel) really won't come into play with heavy material removal.

If you're going to use it as a smoother or you want to use it on a shooting board, then maybe the low angle would be better, but a 5 at 45 degrees isn't the worst shooting board plane in the world, either.

DavidWeaver's picture

Nearly forgot - I do like (post #151416, reply #3 of 9)

Nearly forgot - I do like LN's 60 1/2 a lot better than the original stanley version, purely because of the mechanism to keep the iron clamped down. If you got an older 60 1/2 in good condition with a decent iron, there's nothing you wouldn't be able to do with it, though, you just might find yourself pushing the lever pretty often on the back of the plane to make sure it's still tight.

flairwoodworks's picture

Chris, Ralph and David have (post #151416, reply #4 of 9)

Chris,

Ralph and David have pretty much summed it up for you.

Chris @ www.flairwoodworks.com
and http://flairwoodworks.wordpress.com

 - Success is not the key to happiness.  Happiness is the key to success.  If you love what you are doing, you will be successful. - Albert Schweitzer

9619's picture

Chris, Everyone says that (post #151416, reply #5 of 9)

Chris,

Everyone says that it depends on what you want to do and what you like.   I get confused by statements like that.   I have had the LN 5 1/2 for a long time, and I love it.    I like the extra heft and width.  I just used do do some initial planing after a machine planer screwed up a nice piece of curly birds eye maple.   The 5 1/2 with a gentle curve on the iron (like a smoother but just a bit more camber.    It eliminated the tearout completely.  Now I will go over it with my LN 4 1/2.         

So what about the shooting board.  Some like to use the BU Jacks with a hot dog.   That works, but if you want to use the ULTIMATE plane on a shooting board, try the LN #9.   There is NOTHING like it.

If you REALLY REALLY want to spend your money on a BU JACK,  consider the Lee Valley.  I have two friends who have them, and they love em.   

Actually,  you cant go wrong with whatever you get.  After you get good at this stuff, you use what you have and get the job done.       Anything that LN or LV makes is very very good.   Differences are in style and feel.   

If you plane with a BU plane, then you can't adjust the depth of cut as you are cutting.  I would miss that GREATLY.    Try both for an hour on a number of pieces of different wood.   To me, it is a fine feeling to be planing away with any of my LN BD planes, and reach a finger down as I continue the stroke and make a small but important difference in depth.      It is possible that if I got used to the BU first, I would feel differently.  

Enjoy, don't worry which you get, because by the time its over, you'll have all of them.  Especially if you hang around here.  i am one of the few who talk about just getting the planes you need, and never to pay more for a plane than you would for a LV or an LN, and I take a lot of flack from the plane afficianados who want em all and love to spend big bucks for beauty that doesn't give you more capability than a LV or an LN can give you.

Mel

Measure your output in smiles per board foot. 

DonStephan's picture

Several months ago I was (post #151416, reply #6 of 9)

Several months ago I was asking the same question, although I already had their low angle block plane, a 4 1/2, and an 8.  I had read more than one article on the 62 and was intrigued, but it doesn't didn't look right.  After two or three conversations with LN, I decided to buy the 62 with both a regular blade sharpened to 50 degrees and the toothed blade.

The toothed blade works wonderfully to level panels after glue up.  The boards are flattened beforehand and the joints shot with a #8 and tested with dry stacking.  But even using cauls, there are slight offsets at places along the edge joints.  I flatten the entire surface with the toothed blade, then switch to the regular blade and remove the toothing.  Same for the other side.

For the first several weeks I felt like I sold out the home team for using such a weird looking thing, but the results have solidly won me over.  I'm glad I got it and not the #5.

I encourage you to discuss the issue with LN people as I did.

reeltime1's picture

I've had a harder time with (post #151416, reply #7 of 9)

I've had a harder time with larger bevel up planes.  Block panes-- no problem.  But on anything requiring a handle, I'll choose bevel down every time.  

The plane I'd most like to try for shooting is the strike block plane from Clark & Williams:

  http://www.planemaker.com/products.html

...that is the next time I have $400 dollars burning a hole in my pocket.  

sean_cochran's picture

Smoothing with the No. 62 (post #151416, reply #8 of 9)

This has been a very helpful thread, but I have a specific question on the camber of a bevel up blade.

I'm going to either buy a 62 or 5 1/2 as my first plane to use for most *everything* initially.  It is possible to use the 62 as a smoother?  I don't have a grinder to put on a pronounced camber on, but I've gotten quite good at David Charlesworth's method of a slight camber on bevel down blades with water stones.  I'm concerned that that won't be enough of a camber to prevent tracks on the bevel up plane.

Anyone have experience using a 62 as  a smoother?  Thanks for the info guys!

 

Sean

foxrocks4life08's picture

hey every one sorry it took soo long (post #151416, reply #9 of 9)

a recent article came out im the new issue of fww and it kinda persuaded me toward the low angle jack plane due to the fact u can use the toothed blade to remove material and a blade ground at a high angle for wild grain and a regular angle blade for every day use so next time i get 250$ i think i will pick me up a LN low angle jack plane and maybe some extra irons but thanks every one this helped alot

chris