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End grain help

End grain help (post #169478)

vinworx on Sun, 12/18/2011 - 18:01

Hand Tools

Need a hand plane recommendation for smoothing the tops of end grain cutting boars. Not a big hand tool user. I was looking a lee valley bu low angddfle... any help would be appriate

Mark Rhodes

Vinworx.com

Custome Wine Celllars & Cabinets

Even Out (post #169478, reply #1 of 8)

by Metod in reply to vinworx [original] on Tue, 12/20/2011 - 07:30

Mark,

If the cutting boards are fairly uneven, use a router combines with a suitable sled first. After that even a 45* smoother will finish the surface. The critical detail is in a sharp iron and thin shavings. Keep the sole waxed (even if you use a woodie). Experiment with moisting the grain (water or mineral spirits (ventilate)). Do not hesitate to stop and hone/strop as soon as you detect increased resistance.

I do not have a low angle smoother (and do not plan on one) but have (two of each, Stanley and LN) low angle and regular angle block planes. When the irons are sharp, they cut pretty much the same way on the endgrain.

Experiment some - then decide for yourself.

Best wishes,

Metod

uneven ends (post #169478, reply #2 of 8)

by RalphBarker in reply to vinworx [original] on Tue, 12/20/2011 - 10:07

My end was a little uneven when I was young, but it's pretty much flattened now, after years of sitting in a chair. ;-)

As Metod suggested, a router sled may be a good choice. You can find plans online for building one yourself, or there's a commercial version made by Woodhaven that looks pretty good (I haven't bought one yet.

http://www.amazon.com/Woodhaven-3000-27-...

You'll also see mention of router "skis" mentioned on various router forums. These are essentially a couple of rails with steel rods in between to support the router. The issue is the potential for vertical flex with this arrangement, depending on the materials used.

A belt sander is another option, but they require some skill development to achieve satisfactory results. And, there is the danger of leaving behind abrasive bits that will cause problems with your planes.

I don't think I want to know. (post #169478, reply #5 of 8)

by roc in reply to RalphBarker [original] on Tue, 12/20/2011 - 16:37

Ralph,

I haven't thought to check my end for uneven. I sit quite a lot so maybe it is OK. Although the couch is exceptionally soft . . .

Maybe it mutated into a hideously disturbing deformity . . .

I could ask Queenmasteroftheuniverseandbabybunnytrainer . . .

though I DO NOT wish to draw her attention to even more of my flaws . . .

I don't think I want to know.

Is it important to the success of my woodworking ?

roc

Give me six hours to chop down a tree and I will spend the first four sharpening the axe. Abraham Lincoln ( 54° shaves )

Woodworking success (post #169478, reply #8 of 8)

by RalphBarker in reply to roc [original] on Mon, 12/26/2011 - 09:15

For success in woodworking, it is probably more important for the other end (the head) to be "even". ;-)

End Grain Help (post #169478, reply #3 of 8)

epirnik in reply to vinworx [original] on Tue, 12/20/2011 - 14:13

Mark,

I'd say your original hunch was correct - a low angle bevel up smoother. Keep in mind however, that to obtain a glass-smooth finish on that end grain, you'll still need to go back and sand with some fine paper after the planing has been done. Planing the end grain will level things out, but it won't leave things glass smooth - just the nature of the cut when dealing with end grain.

Best,

-Ed

Ed Pirnik
Senior Web Producer
Fine Woodworking

Oh . . . nowwww . . . (post #169478, reply #4 of 8)

by roc in reply to

epirnik [original] on Tue, 12/20/2011 - 16:09

>you'll still need to go back and sand with some fine paper after the planing has been done. Planing the end grain will level things out, but it won't leave things glass smooth - just the nature of the cut when dealing with end grain.<

Lets not underestimate the hand plane.

I agree with the router thing if Mark has to do many cutting boards. Take a while to level out the top if all end grain and uneven not to mention the danger of knocking chunks off the edges if his technique isn't impeccable with a scrub plane. Meaning plane toward the center and pick up before going off the edge each time ( or build a sacrificial boarder around the perimeter).

If Mark were to plane all the way across the top and off the edge it will bust a a sliver or two off the side most every time.

See first photo. No sand paper here. Good technique, great hand plane (Veritas low angle smoother ) and a bit of water to wet. Alcohol or paint thinner is even better ( easier on the plane as far as rust problems ) but requires shop ventilation.

Sand paper ? Humpf

: )

roc

Give me six hours to chop down a tree and I will spend the first four sharpening the axe. Abraham Lincoln ( 54° shaves )

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Thanks (post #169478, reply #6 of 8)

by vinworx in reply to vinworx [original] on Tue, 12/20/2011 - 19:16

I guess I should have told you they are flat. I run then through the wide belt sander w 80 grit I just need to take the belt marks off and make it.smooth.

Mark Rhodes

Vinworx.com

Custome Wine Celllars & Cabinets