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Chiseling Question

Chiseling Question (post #169544)

eruna on Mon, 01/02/2012 - 07:12

Hand Tools

I'm installing a truss rod into a guitar kneck. It is a long thin rod with a nut on the end. The main channel was made with a router and the end sits flush. The nut on the other end, about an inch long , is about an 1'8" bigger all around. The end of the rod just before the nut is also irregually shaped . That end section of the channel is chiselled out to compensate.

I'm having trouble getting it to sit flush. Its just a hair too high. I measured the depth of the carved out section with a ruler and it is actually a little too deep. Are there any tricks for figuring out where it catching? I was thinking of molding the channel with silicon so I could compare it the rod. Though that seems extreme.

Thank you for your help.

You may be able to scribble (post #169544, reply #1 of 4)

by hammer1 in reply to eruna [original] on Mon, 01/02/2012 - 07:27

You may be able to scribble on the back with a soft pencil and/ or tighten to see if you get a mark on the high spot.

Beat it to fit / Paint it to match

That sounds like a great (post #169544, reply #2 of 4)

by eruna in reply to hammer1 [original] on Mon, 01/02/2012 - 14:41

That sounds like a great suggestion. Can you provide some more information? Would I scribble on the truss rod or the cavity?

Is the idea that the truss rud would scrape at the pencil? I don't quite understand what you mean.

Thank You!

Or you could use chalk (post #169544, reply #4 of 4)

by roc in reply to eruna [original] on Tue, 01/03/2012 - 20:13

I am thinking Hammer means to scrub the rod with the side of the pencil lead and where it contacts the wood it will leave a black smudge. Then you can chisel that away and reapply the pencil etc.

If the wood is dark then chalk may be of some use in the same manner.

roc

Give me six hours to chop down a tree and I will spend the first four sharpening the axe. Abraham Lincoln ( 54° shaves )

From your description it (post #169544, reply #3 of 4)

by Gert in reply to eruna [original] on Tue, 01/03/2012 - 09:34

From your description it seems that the type of thruss rod that you describe should go into a curved channel. On top goes a curve 'lid'. This because it is a single acting thruss rod. The curve is needed to give the rod some leverage when tightened, thuss counteracting the string tension. I could be wrong, there are many different designs around.

For the real experts on this matter I advise you to visit mimf.com (forum).