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how 2 bevel glass (D-I-Y er)

Chipper's picture

Does anybody know what the best and most efficient technique is for a D-I-Y er to put a slight bevel on standard cut (rough edges) clear glass (1/4" inch)???? I just can't grasp the properties of glass! I mostly work with wood, metal and synthetic products. Is there a way that someone that works with glass knows stress points, breaking points, strong or bearing points..... on the flat versus horizontal...... Please Explain to me,..... ....."I am CLUELESS!" thank you!! Chipper 12/16/2003

DougF's picture

(post #79035, reply #1 of 5)


My wife does stained glass and has a special grinder attachment to grind and polish bevels.  The process includes a high-speed grinding wheel running under constant lubrication (water).  Unless you want to invest in this equipment, about $200, I would recommend taking the piece to a glass shop or a specialty shop for stained glass to have the bevel cut.  It probably will not cost as much as you think.



LD's picture

(post #79035, reply #2 of 5)

If your interested in a true bevel, take it to an expert.  If all you want to do is remove the sharp burrs on the cut edge, you can do that with a portable belt sander.  It's call seaming.

Make sure the galss is support along the edge your seaming, and just touch it with a running belt sander.  I always used the space between the platen and the idiling roller to allow some cushoning of the belt.  I normally used 120 to 150 grit sanding belts.  It's surprising how much of the edge you can grind off in this fashion.



Dennis02's picture

(post #79035, reply #3 of 5)

Chipper -

If all you want to do is take the sharp edge from the cut you can use a block of wood and sandpaper/emery cloth. To put a slight bevel use, in order of application, safety goggles (not glasses) and a belt sander keeping the sander moving gingerly at *all* times. Not much of a controlled edge without a real steady hand and lots of control. But for a one-off operation it will work. Don't let the glass get hot from the belt or you'll have two or more pieces from the heat.



Dennis in Bellevue WA

........... From Beautiful Skagit Co. Wa. Dennis
Tao's picture

(post #79035, reply #4 of 5)

Don't forget a dust mask, too.  Glass dust and lungs don't get along too well.

Michael R.


HenryVIII's picture

(post #79035, reply #5 of 5)

I have some experience in this sort of thing, and I would second everything Dennis says.  Also, Klingspor has a line of sanding belts for use on glass, and they work very well.

I clamp the glass down on the edge of a flat table, with no more than 1/8 inch overhanging the edge, and then get some LIQUID WD 40 and pour it along the edge of the glass before starting with the belt sander.  It keeps the glass cooler and makes the cutting faster because the belts don't load up.  It may be my imagination, but the bevel seems finer and straighter, too.  It also keeps the dust down and out of your lungs, hair, eyes, shorts...

Start gingerly, though.  You'll cut more glass than you think you're cutting if you use this system.  I'd definitely get some scrap pieces to practice on if you can.

Hope this helps.