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Face frame + beaded inset

JoeGTP's picture

I'm building some face frame cabinets and I want to try flush/beaded inset mounting the cabinet doors. I also want to have fully concealed hinges. I'm having problems finding a hinge to meet my needs. There are plenty of european style hinges but they all seem to mount to the sides of the cabinet. Am I missing something?

matt calnen's picture

(post #88502, reply #1 of 10)

Could you clarify what your trying to do? Are you making Inset doors with a bead on the perimeter of the door or the opening of the face frame? I'm doing a kitchen right now with beaded face frames and inset doors. I use Blum hinges and I set the box side either flush, 3/8, or 3/4 from the opening of the face frame on the hinge side and this setup works great.

JoeGTP's picture

(post #88502, reply #2 of 10)

This is an image of what I'm trying to do:
http://www.adelphikitchens.com/cabinetry-selector/BeadedInset.gif

Most of the hinges I can find require the cabinet door to be perpendicular (90 degrees) to the mounting point as opposed to 180 degrees.

I did find "Grass Beaded Inset Door Hinges" this morning but I can't find anywhere to buy it which leads me to believe I'm still looking at the wrong type of hinge.

You mentioned you are using blum hinges can you give me the specific hinge you are using.

MikeHennessy's picture

(post #88502, reply #3 of 10)

The only ways I know to do what you are looking for is to use a mortised hinge, like a Soss hinge, or a framless-type hinge. You can use the latter with a frame if you make the inside edge of the face frame flush with the inside edge of the cabinet. Here's a link to the type I'm refering to:  http://www.hardwaresource.com/Store_ViewCatLevel3.asp?Cat=661   (I'm not vouching for the store -- just the first example I came across.)


Mike Hennessy
Pittsburgh, PA

Mike Hennessy
Pittsburgh, PA
Everything fits, until you put glue on it.

matt calnen's picture

(post #88502, reply #8 of 10)

In your application if the distance from the cabinet side  to the face frame opening is 3/4" which is what it looks like, you should use a 18mm plate/clip and a full crank hinge.

oldusty's picture

(post #88502, reply #4 of 10)

  Joe ,


      I think you are talking about the reveal or space between the edge of the ff and the cabinet wall ,yes ?


     It is really not a problem , you just need to learn to use the right hardware.


    As has been said you either block it out close to flush with the edge of the face or there are some hinge mounting brackets that go behind the ff and require like 1/2" space or reveal , Mepla make this and I would think it is available in other brands as well.


      hope this helps

joepez's picture

(post #88502, reply #5 of 10)

joe,


i just finished up  the exact cabinet, inset doors, with beaded face frames.


i used a small block to attached to the side walls of the cabinet to build it out and used a blum euro hinge.


as another poster mentioned, blum and others have a mounting bracket that attaches to the back of the face frame requiring some reveal to mount the bracket.


i think #2 is a better option, cleaner look. if you have not started building the cab yet, i would make the stiles a little wider to accomodate this hinge, or build the cabinet so as you have a reveal to avoid having to use blocks to build out. do a mock up.


check around with a plywood supplier, not a big box, they have alot of different hinges you can get.


joe p

matt calnen's picture

(post #88502, reply #6 of 10)

I've used the blum clip/bracket that attaches to the back of the face frame and am not happy with the longativity of this method. I've had a number of call backs due to the nature of the stresses put on  the screws connecting the bracket to the face frame. The wood usually ends up splitting as the door and hinge act as a long lever torquing the connection when the door is fully open. Blum makes a 0,9,and 18mm mounting clips and when used in conjunction with either the full overlay, full or half crank hinges, you can build your cabinet with a varity of distances of the face frame opening to the cabinet side and have a clean, strong mounting of your door.

oldusty's picture

(post #88502, reply #7 of 10)

  Joe ,       I will strongly agree try not to use the ones that screw in behind the face frame . Use the side mount brackets they do come in a compact size now and offer more solid support in the long haul you can block the whole side area or just the hinge area .


 

mapleman's picture

(post #88502, reply #9 of 10)

 Joe ,       I will strongly agree try not to use the ones that screw in behind the face frame . Use the side mount brackets they do come in a compact size now and offer more solid support in the long haul you can block the whole side area or just the hinge area


Dusty,


Uh............Uh oh! I just did a whole kitchen like this with the hinge plates that screw to the back of the face frame. I didn't know there were other options. Can you point me to these compact hinges you are talking about?  I am assuming they mount to the inside of the cabinet like a frameless hinge????


 


Lee

oldusty's picture

(post #88502, reply #10 of 10)

  Brother Lee ,


           I used a some on a job and set all the doors , then took the doors off for the painters but asked them not to take the brackets off .


        I had one heck of a time ever getting those brackets set right again .


   The screws go in on an angle it seemed and from the front side of the cabinet were for me difficult to dial in and it would seem you are limited on the screw size more maybe or it split the wood back there something was awkward .


 Mepla or Blum use a 110° hinge with what they call box mount or block mount brackets or the newer compact version bracket that may use a crank style hinge .


      Just flush the jamb out to the edge of the face or build it out


               d