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removing scratches from black walnut with a BLO finish

PastyMC's picture

Hello all,

I just applied a first coat of boiled linseed oil (cut with mineral spirits) over a bare black walnut coffee table top.  I noticed some scratches on the surface after the application that I would like to sand out. What is the best way to go about this without ruining the quality of the finish?  Can I spot sand or should I plan on re-sanding the entire top for the sake of continuity?

Also, the walnut top has a mild blotchy appearance in a couple areas that seems to disappear when viewed from different angles.  Not sure if this is part of the character of the walnut or if this could be avoided on future projects with the use of a wood conditioner or pore filler?  Thoughts.

Thanks in advance for your input.

SteveSchoene's picture

You  can sand out the (post #169493, reply #1 of 8)

You  can sand out the scratches you missed before applying the oil.  You should use a sanding block and sand a large enough area that you avoid sanding in "dips" where the scratches were.  In future a close inspection, using light from a low side angle is a good thing.  The wood can be wet with mineral spirits or naphtha to help reveal defects. 

I doubt you will see much difference in the sanded portions when you reapply another coat of BLO--your last.  (One coat of BLO is all that is desirable.)  BLO by itself is just for wetting out the wood to help reveal grain.  Otherwise it makes a lousy finish since it offers almost no protection against water spotting or other defects.  It also "ages" quickly, calling for frequent repair.  A much better alternative to using BLO by itself is to mix BLO with varnish thinned with mineral spirits.  The oil varnish mix gives much more protection, and in a couple of coats gives virtually the same look that BLO by itself would have.  It will require much less frequent refreshing and will protect much better against water spotting.  Frankly, in most cases you might as well start with the oil/varnish mix--it will bring out grain just about identically to starting with an initial oil coat. 

You may be seeing chatoyance where the wood shows different tones from different angles.  That's a natural property--you really can't eliminate it, unless you essentially mask the wood, but it best work you should be aware of it when selecting wood so that an attractive and consistant pattern.  You may also be seeing different absorbancy of the oill if it weren't applied evenly.  That will disappear with subsequent coats.   

Test your finish on scrap, FIRST, or risk having to scrap your finish.

Westchester's picture

Scratches (post #169493, reply #2 of 8)

Pasty

If the scratches are deep in the wood and require sanding with wood paper - you should strip off the oil and start again.

SA

roc's picture

What are the chances ? (post #169493, reply #5 of 8)

Can she steam the scratches out ?  Wet the scratched area and apply a hot clothes iron.  Does it still work with a light coat of thinned BLO ?

I don't have any experience with this and am curious.  I recently steamed out a very minor set of scratches in some camphor wood that had a very thin coat of shellac applied over a year ago.  It worked.

roc

Give me six hours to chop down a tree and I will spend the first four sharpening the axe. Abraham Lincoln ( 54° shaves )

sid works's picture

depends (post #169493, reply #6 of 8)

on whether the so called scratch is a cut type scratch or a pushed in or dented type of scratch as to what the steam will do. with the cut it will bring the wood back to shape but will not repair the cut mark

ron

PastyMC's picture

Thanks fellas.  I appreciate (post #169493, reply #3 of 8)

Thanks fellas.  I appreciate your input.

PastyMC's picture

Thanks fellas.  I appreciate (post #169493, reply #4 of 8)

Thanks fellas.  I appreciate your input.

swannyww's picture

coffee table (post #169493, reply #7 of 8)

Sanding with the same grit and pressure along with the finest grit will reveal scratches before you finish.  I have missed scratches as well and I simply keep a sanding block in the finish area to remove the scratches even after I applied oil.  I just take some naptha and wipe it the best I can and sand with the grit that will remove the scratches.  I also remember to sand to the final grit I used on the rest of the piece.  The sandpaper will load quickly because of the oil that seeped in, but just use a new piece of sandpaper and keep on going till the desired results appear.  On oil finishes the key is sanding evenly because you arent using a varnish etc. to impart a sheen that hides imperfections, you are using the woods sheen to control the look depending on how many coats of finish you apply.  

roc's picture

Ahhh the scratches may be sanding scratches (post #169493, reply #8 of 8)

If so forget the steam then.

Sanding scratches . . .

Makes me appreciate my hand planes even more.  From plane to finish ( no sanding ).

roc

Give me six hours to chop down a tree and I will spend the first four sharpening the axe. Abraham Lincoln ( 54° shaves )