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Muriatic on Pine

StarchyArchy's picture

Muriatic on Pine (post #169529)

StarchyArchy on Fri, 12/30/2011 - 15:52
in

I am somewhat new to woodworking, but have enjoyed myself immensely thus far.  Recently, I built a sewing table for my wife out of some pine, but I finished it with muriatic acid to give it a weathered look.  After painting on the muriatic, it sat for several days.  Then, I sprayed two coats of a basic solution (1 gallon of water/1/3 cup baking soda) to neutralize the acid.  Last night, my wife sat some fabric on the table and when she picked it up this morning, the fabric was tinted pink where it had been sitting on the table. 

Does anybody know of a good way to further neutralize the acid so it doesn't affect anymore fabric? 

-A +A
BruceS's picture

Test it (post #169529, reply #1 of 14)

by BruceS in reply to StarchyArchy [original] on Fri, 12/30/2011 - 16:30

Get some litmus strips and keep treating and testing  it till you get to neutral 7ph.

Work Safe,  Count to 10 when your done for the day !!

Bruce S. 

 

sid works's picture

try vinegar(acetic acid) (post #169529, reply #5 of 14)

by sid works in reply to StarchyArchy [original] on Fri, 12/30/2011 - 21:45

to neutralize  and then water

ron

http://s908.photobucket.com/albums/ac281...

SteveSchoene's picture

That's the problem, he (post #169529, reply #6 of 14)

by SteveSchoene in reply to sid works [original] on Fri, 12/30/2011 - 21:46

That's the problem, he doesn't know if he has ended up with acidic, or as over neutralized and gotten to a basic solution.  Vinegar is acidic and will only neutralize a base.  If you sprinkle baking soda on the wet surface, does it fizz.  If so it is still basic. 

I suggest a lot of water to remove whatever contaminate remains, whether acid or base. 

Test your finish on scrap, FIRST, or risk having to scrap your finish.

roc's picture

: ) (post #169529, reply #2 of 14)

by roc in reply to StarchyArchy [original] on Fri, 12/30/2011 - 20:00

 Ha, ha, ha, ha

Modern man has such silly problems to solve.

 Ha, ha, ha, ha

Putting driveway cleaner / soldering flux on a woodworking project.

 . . . :   )

 Ha, ha, ha, ha

roc

Give me six hours to chop down a tree and I will spend the first four sharpening the axe. Abraham Lincoln ( 54° shaves )

sid works's picture

and what do you know? (post #169529, reply #7 of 14)

by sid works in reply to roc [original] on Fri, 12/30/2011 - 22:01

the one who always has the smart ass retorts. sometimes you should do some research before you open your mouth if you do not know the answer.

when used very strong produces black stains. on oak dark brown stains can be produced with it if wiped off before full action can take place. on pine of the soft vaiety the action of muriatic acid is that of producing a light greenish gray.. it may be diluted with water for lighter colours

may not be good for your health

ron

http://s908.photobucket.com/albums/ac281...

roc's picture

Ron (post #169529, reply #8 of 14)

by roc in reply to sid works [original] on Fri, 12/30/2011 - 22:33

:   )

roc

Give me six hours to chop down a tree and I will spend the first four sharpening the axe. Abraham Lincoln ( 54° shaves )

hammer1's picture

Use vinegar and never use (post #169529, reply #3 of 14)

by hammer1 in reply to StarchyArchy [original] on Fri, 12/30/2011 - 21:30

Use vinegar and never use muriatic acid again, very unhealthy. Get it out of your house, too.

Beat it to fit / Paint it to match

roc's picture

Hammer1, Tell Me More Please (post #169529, reply #9 of 14)

by roc in reply to hammer1 [original] on Fri, 12/30/2011 - 22:36

  >muriatic acid . . ., very unhealthy<

I only have a couple of ounces for flux when soldering steel.

I know it has zinc chloride in it ( and phosphoric acid ).

I know people who strip the mill scale off hot rolled steel with the stuff so they have a tub with a couple of gallons sitting around loosely "sealed".  I have read that on Knots as well and would have considered doing it myself in the future.

Your thoughts ?

roc

Give me six hours to chop down a tree and I will spend the first four sharpening the axe. Abraham Lincoln ( 54° shaves )

hammer1's picture

Muriatic acid is nothing more (post #169529, reply #11 of 14)

by hammer1 in reply to roc [original] on Sat, 12/31/2011 - 07:16

Muriatic acid is nothing more than diluted hydrochloric acid. Highly toxic and corrosive. It reacts with metals to form hydrogen gas, potentially explosive in air, not to mention the health hazards to skin and the respiratory system. The vapors can expand in a container and leak out, attacking any metal, sulfides, silicates as well as others. Look up the MSDS on it. It's not something that should be taken lightly.

Beat it to fit / Paint it to match

roc's picture

Thanks for the info (post #169529, reply #12 of 14)

by roc in reply to hammer1 [original] on Sat, 12/31/2011 - 15:41

 >vapors can expand in a container and leak out, attacking any metal, <

I won't be having any of that in my current windowless shop.   There is some significant temperature swing because I leave it cold when not there then heat it up some to use it.  Expand expand.  Vapors not good for the lathe, bandsaw, table saw etc.

Next shop maybe I will have an out building with some proper equip.  Leave the sand blaster booth and what ever else there too.

I know . . . static electricity / vapors not good = big assed ventilator.  Had one at the engine shop that looked and worked like an air plane propeller.  Almost instant fresh air in the whole room !

roc

Give me six hours to chop down a tree and I will spend the first four sharpening the axe. Abraham Lincoln ( 54° shaves )

Tinkerer3's picture

muriatic acid (post #169529, reply #13 of 14)

by Tinkerer3 in reply to roc [original] on Wed, 02/01/2012 - 23:52

Muriatic acid is an industarial quality hydrocloric acid.  Has many uses in industry and in construction.  Among uses already mentioned, it also makes a good drain cleaner and cleaning the mortar spills from laying brick.  Be careful, though, It is strong stuff.

Paul

Tinkerer3's picture

muriatic acid (post #169529, reply #14 of 14)

by Tinkerer3 in reply to roc [original] on Wed, 02/01/2012 - 23:52

Muriatic acid is an industarial quality hydrocloric acid.  Has many uses in industry and in construction.  Among uses already mentioned, it also makes a good drain cleaner and cleaning the mortar spills from laying brick.  Be careful, though, It is strong stuff.

Paul

SteveSchoene's picture

ust to point something else (post #169529, reply #4 of 14)

by SteveSchoene in reply to StarchyArchy [original] on Fri, 12/30/2011 - 21:33

ust to point something else out before your wife discovers it.  Sewing tables NEED to be SMOOTH.  Snag one fine knit, or catch a thread, or otherwise damage fabric, and you'll be wishing you had just dyed it grey and coated with shellac.  Make sure you remove all the raised grain from your acid/base flushing processes before you turn it back over to her. 

  I suppose shellac will still adhere if the surface is a bit acidic, but if you end up with a basic solution, it could damage the shellac.   

Test your finish on scrap, FIRST, or risk having to scrap your finish.

StarchyArchy's picture

Good Point (post #169529, reply #10 of 14)

by StarchyArchy in reply to SteveSchoene [original] on Fri, 12/30/2011 - 22:49

You are right about the smoothness.  I am intending to upholster the top, so snags should not be a problem.  I was trying to get the rest of the wood weathered, but at this point I am willing to do anything to make it neutral and then paint it grey as mentioned above. 

It sounds like my best bet is to try the litmus paper to check the pH, then wash with water to try to dilute whatever is there.  Once it is basically neutral, then I can seal it.  I appreciate everyone's input!