Finishing Nakashima Piece

Artists grade linseed oil differs very little from the commodity linseed oil in the big box stores.  Certainly differences not worth the tremendous difference in price when used as a wood finish..  But, take care, some of the artist's oils will be raw linseed oil that will take just short of forever to cure.. Now there are variants sold in art supply stores, such as stand oil, which have been partially polymerized these might actually show a bit of water resistance and cure to a bit higher sheen.  But even so you can find similar products sold for furniture applications at lower price per ounce.  

I would never use linseed oil as a stand alone finishing product.  It offers virtually no protection from water, and in some applications appears to encourage the growth of mold.  It oxidizes to dull in short order, requiring frequent refreshing.  In every case where you might think of using just linseed oil, you can be better off using an oil/varnish mix.  This has the appearance of the oil only finish, but with meaningfully greater moisture resistance and durability.  (By the way, pure tung oil is no more acceptable than pure or boiled linseed oil--in fact it dries much more slowly and if applied too quickly has the potential to develop an ugly greyish white frosted appearance that doesn't always appear immediately, but may pop up a few months down the road. )

As far as the Nakashima furniture--I agree with others that you should work with the maker.  This is potentially collectible furniture whose value could be damaged by non-original, or non-authentic finishes.    

417,

I have a question for my own edimification.  :   )

Is the underside finished by the table maker ?

Gretchen,

Thanks,  I copied that into my finishing notes and look forward to trying that out.

also

the OP should remove the old finish first if he were to go with your non poly thinned varnish?  Is that correct ?  Or can one apply your finish over the relatively newly applied Cabots from Nakashima ?

This is a good discussion; up til now I was going to suggest they change the name of Knots to "Molasses".  :   )

Nakashima obviously wants the minimalist finish.  Enough to get at least some of the effects of wetting out the wood, but keeping an unfinished look.  If you change that you do run the risk of reducing resale value.  That would certainly occur if you put on a film finish since that would really change the appearance.  But adding a coat or two of an oil/varnish mix, being sure to wipe off all excess vigorously won't be a dramatic change, and will over time return to more of the original look. 

You do not need to remove old finish to apply an additional coat of oil/varnish mix, whether Cabots or other.  I would clean thoroughly first, including a good scrub with naphtha to remove excess oil, if perchance any mineral oil had been applied, or the like.  If you wipe off excess sufficiently, you won't build up a gloss surface which would be a large departure to the original spirit.

Of course, you do own the piece, and can paint it florescent orange if you want, though that is both a sacriledge and akin to lighting cigars with $50 bills.  Varnishes could be applied directly over the cabots oil/varnish mix and should adhere fine, although polyurethane varnishes could have more adhesion issues (and though not as deadly a sin as flourescent paint would also be very much out of the Nakashima spirit.)