NEW! Faster Search Option

Loading

Filling the Voids (Walnut)

WillGraham2's picture

Good day Folks.

I have some realy nice walnut with a few samll cracks and a couple of knots.  They are milled down to 2 7/8 X 2 7/8 by 50" and 70".  I have seen some very nice large slabs on counter top and table tops with voids filled with I am guessing an epoxy filler.  I plan to finish natural, and clear coat satin.  I need advice on the best filler and method, tainted or clear (I am partial to clear for now).  I have never filled voids before. I am based in Ontario.

Thanks

Will

roc's picture

Don't fault the faults. Enjoy them Just look at The Grand Canyon (post #170521, reply #1 of 4)

Hello in the North,

I bet you are much cooler than we are down here in Colorado, USA.

You may want to consider leaving the voids open and natural.  You will have to vacuum them out or other wise clean them but this will probably look the best on an all natural, satin piece.  On a higher gloss or geometrical piece then filling the gaps would look better.  Just my off the cuff opinion.

Epoxy is the only way to go.  Reason being is that about anything with solvents will shrink and then you have to keep adding layers to build up the sag of each layer.

Epoxy doesn't have solvent that evaporates. Epoxy cures by cross linking and the two components just harden without shrinking.

Down side is that over a long period of time, maybe especially if the work is put in a location with a lot of sun light, it will turn yellow and or some times get milky rather than clear.

I will post some past links and epoxy suppliers.

Study the work of George Nakashima.  Gaps and voids are interesting and cool in a natural edge piece and even in a more geometrical piece in my opinion.

http://www.amazon.com/Soul-Tree-Master-W...

http://forums.finewoodworking.com/fine-w...

http://forums.finewoodworking.com/fine-w...

roc

Give me six hours to chop down a tree and I will spend the first four sharpening the axe. Abraham Lincoln ( 54° shaves )

roc's picture

PS: (post #170521, reply #2 of 4)

I reread your questions.

If the cracks are long and thin and uninteresting probably just rip the planks there and joint them back togeather.  Done right one can't even see the seam.

The nickel is over a joint. (that's walnut by the way)

roc

Give me six hours to chop down a tree and I will spend the first four sharpening the axe. Abraham Lincoln ( 54° shaves )

PreviewAttachmentSize
IMG_0397.JPG
IMG_0397.JPG64.31 KB
IMG_0403.JPG
IMG_0403.JPG75.94 KB
This_ones_bubinga.JPG
This_ones_bubinga.JPG46.12 KB
WillGraham2's picture

Thanks. but the pieces I have (post #170521, reply #3 of 4)

Thanks. but the pieces I have milled down close to finished size,  They are posts and top rails for a headboard.  I had little choice in 12/4 stock to choose from. I only had a couple of incis of scrap. I have to stick to what I have for these.

 

Thanks Again

sid works's picture

one can always (post #170521, reply #4 of 4)

put a slip in the cracks. just standardize the crack with a saw kerf and glue a corressponding piece of wood in. if the knots are sound , just leave them. they are just knots. if not cut them out and replace with a matching plug. Putting any type of filler in any of it, will just crack eventually and will look worse than orig as it will be a failed repair. epxoy is not the cure-all.

ron