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Can you mix oil and water?

cbj13's picture

Can you mix oil and water? (post #169520)

cbj13 on Wed, 12/28/2011 - 19:40
in

 

Hi .

I really like the super hard finish you get from the Varathane water soluble finishing product ( was Flecto, now Rustoleum). The problem is the finish is laying ON the wood, and really doesn't do much to bring out the grain. I am restricted to using non- smelly/water soluble finishes because  I have a basement workshop and my wife objewcts to me smelling up the house with more volatile finishes. I like what an oil finish does to the grain,

Does anyone know if it is possible to use an oil finish to pop the grain, and then  cover that with the hard, water soluble Varathane, to protect the finish? (ie Do oil and water mix?) 

Any help would be appreciated. 

Clarkj

-A +A
SteveSchoene's picture

Yes, if you let the oil cure (post #169520, reply #1 of 6)

by SteveSchoene in reply to cbj13 [original] on Thu, 12/29/2011 - 07:06

Yes, if you let the oil cure first, you can apply a waterborne finish over it.  The cheapest and about the most effective ways to get what you are looking for is to use one coat of BLO, boiled linseed oil, with all excess thoroughly buffed off.  I'd give it a couple or three days in a warm place to cure. 

Just in the nature of quibble, I try not to call those waterborne finishes water soluble, since as you know, once they cure they are not soluble in water.  To be pickily technical the water doesn't really dissolve the finishing resin in the beginning, the resin, mostly acyrlic, is dissolved in a solvent typically a relative of ethylene glycol, and then emulisfied into the water in form of tiny little packets of material.  When the water carrier evaporates the packets come together and link into the finish. 

Test your finish on scrap, FIRST, or risk having to scrap your finish.

SteveSchoene's picture

delete double post (post #169520, reply #4 of 6)

by SteveSchoene in reply to cbj13 [original] on Thu, 12/29/2011 - 07:12

delete

Test your finish on scrap, FIRST, or risk having to scrap your finish.

SteveSchoene's picture

Yes, if you let the oil cure (post #169520, reply #2 of 6)

by SteveSchoene in reply to cbj13 [original] on Thu, 12/29/2011 - 07:06

Yes, if you let the oil cure first, you can apply a waterborne finish over it.  The cheapest and about the most effective ways to get what you are looking for is to use one coat of BLO, boiled linseed oil, with all excess thoroughly buffed off.  I'd give it a couple or three days in a warm place to cure. 

Just in the nature of quibble, I try not to call those waterborne finishes water soluble, since as you know, once they cure they are not soluble in water.  To be pickily technical the water doesn't really dissolve the finishing resin in the beginning, the resin, mostly acyrlic, is dissolved in a solvent typically a relative of ethylene glycol, and then emulisfied into the water in form of tiny little packets of material.  When the water carrier evaporates the packets come together and link into the finish. 

Test your finish on scrap, FIRST, or risk having to scrap your finish.

SteveSchoene's picture

Yes, if you let the oil cure (post #169520, reply #3 of 6)

by SteveSchoene in reply to cbj13 [original] on Thu, 12/29/2011 - 07:06

Yes, if you let the oil cure first, you can apply a waterborne finish over it.  The cheapest and about the most effective ways to get what you are looking for is to use one coat of BLO, boiled linseed oil, with all excess thoroughly buffed off.  I'd give it a couple or three days in a warm place to cure. 

Just in the nature of quibble, I try not to call those waterborne finishes water soluble, since as you know, once they cure they are not soluble in water.  To be pickily technical the water doesn't really dissolve the finishing resin in the beginning, the resin, mostly acyrlic, is dissolved in a solvent typically a relative of ethylene glycol, and then emulisfied into the water in form of tiny little packets of material.  When the water carrier evaporates the packets come together and link into the finish. 

Test your finish on scrap, FIRST, or risk having to scrap your finish.

HowardAcheson's picture

Let me add that what makes an (post #169520, reply #5 of 6)

by HowardAcheson in reply to cbj13 [original] on Thu, 12/29/2011 - 17:10

Let me add that what makes an oil based finish "pop" the grain is the amber color of oil based finishes.  As Steve suggested, applying an initial coat of boiled linseed oil will provide the amber.  However, before over coating with a waterborne clear finish, you need to be sure the BLO is completely dry.  I would would wipe on a thin coat of BLO and immediately wipe off the excess until it is dry.  Then let it dry for 3-4 day.

Howie.........
sapwood's picture

Alternatively, you may like a (post #169520, reply #6 of 6)

by sapwood in reply to cbj13 [original] on Sat, 12/31/2011 - 10:01

Alternatively, you may like a water borne shellac called Ultra Seal made and marketed by Target Coatings (www.targetcoatings.com).

I've used this on some work and it performs very well. However, I like to use regular alcohol shellac prior to my water borne topcoats since they are available in many shades color.