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Problems Setting a Bandsaw

Problems Setting a Bandsaw (post #92256)

Nathan on Thu, 03/18/1999 - 19:57

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I have recently purchased a 14" JET bandsaw. I did the set-up as mentioned in the manual yet I can't resaw straight. This is especially evident when resawing thick hardwood. The blade will allways want to go to the right. I recently noticed that the bottom drive wheel is in further than the top wheel, this creates a tracking problem with the blade. Could this be the problem? If so, how is it fixed? Thanks for any info.

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by Steve_K_ in reply to Nathan [original] on Wed, 02/17/1999 - 13:52

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Here is real good description of what happens when resawing. It may help you.
Steve K.

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by bob_kubas in reply to Anonymous [original] on Wed, 02/17/1999 - 18:16

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Nathan
both wheels top and bottom should be planer a straight edge placed across the bottom wheel should be flush with both the top wheel at the same time to give better tracking in the wood. If this is your problem determine the offset amount and remove the offending wheel and place washers spacers behind it to bring it into the same plane as the other wheel. Look up some books from the library/bookstore etc. on bandsaw tuning lots of good info available.
bob

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by jim_b in reply to Anonymous [original] on Sat, 02/20/1999 - 20:15

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Your biggest problem is your purchase...I examined all the possibilites and bought a Inca model 710...20" bandsaw. All roller guides...made in Switzerland...accurate to a fault. I can cut a 1/16 slice from an Oak 4X4 without a problem...it's kind of slow going, but even that 1 1/2 horsepower motor isn't happy slicing thru 4 inches of oak. Yeah, it's an expensive machine, but it works like nothing else. Take a big gulp, call Garrett Wade and buy the INCA...you'll never be sorry.

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by Mike_Welch in reply to Anonymous [original] on Mon, 03/01/1999 - 12:06

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Nathan: If you purchased your bandsaw recently, you may be one of the lucky ones who got one with a guide post alignment problem. I am, and I know 10 other people on the web who also have had problems, which become more apparent after installing the riser blocks. I'll contact you about it via email soon.

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by Mike_Welch in reply to Anonymous [original] on Sat, 03/06/1999 - 02:18

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Nathan, another thing I failed to think about is blade lead. (sorry I haven't written you an email yet). You really ought to get Duginske's bandsaw book. It'll show you how to tune your saw, how to get your wheels coplaner and how to use coplaner tracking, which from the sounds of things would be the first thing to address. If you still have the problem after tuning your saw, then I'd consider the blade lead. Some blades lead worse than others, but the jest of it is, just because your fence is square with your blade, and your blade is square with your table, you have to still adjust for where the blade wants to cut. I've had some that lead so bad I won't even use them. Others have a subtle lead. Suffolk's 3/4" Timberwolf blades (http://www.suffolkmachinery.com) have had the least lead I've seen.

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by Frank_V. in reply to Anonymous [original] on Thu, 03/18/1999 - 19:57

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Nathan,
You definitely do not need another bandsaw unless you have extra money burning a hole in your pock as some do. I have the bandsaw book by Duginske and it is extremely valuable. Right off the bat you stated your main problem - the wheels must be in the same plane. Fix the wheel plane problem and get the book. I have it for my Delta 14" and I have gotten great info from it from initially tuning the saw up to saw blade advice to cutting techniques. good luck.

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by patternmaker in reply to Anonymous [original] on Sat, 11/24/2007 - 21:43

Mike:
I hesitate to reply to a message that is eight years old,but here goes.
Some years ago I caused quite a heated discussion when I stated that I never found it necessary to consider drift when resawing on the bandsaw. Ihat opinion is as valid now as it was then.
Consider,that if a saw cuts the same on both set edges,why would it wander.Most saws that are spring set and can be hand filed,are not suited for resaw work.
I use hard edge saws usually provided to the metal working trade. These are precision made and the edges ground exactly square to the line of cut.
In all these years,I have always kept the fence parallel with the wheel face,and the board tight against the the fence surface.I normaly saw pattern lumber 1/8 to 1/4 in. thick to laminate into heavier stock for making dimensionaly stable patterns for the foundry trade.
Work safely ¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬PAT¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬¬

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by flairwoodworks in reply to Anonymous [original] on Sun, 11/25/2007 - 06:40

Patternmaker,

You've sure got me started. I spent two whole hours trying to set my fence so that I could resaw some 8" wide dogwood. I finally gave up and used a pivot block - no problems!

I understand the theory with the straight fence, but in practice, it doesn't work for me. I suppose the blade has to be parallel to the fence (aka riding centered on the tires). Any uneven wear on the blade would cause the blade to drift also.