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Makita 2040 Thickness Planner feed ro...

Greg_Keen's picture

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Ideas welcome please! Old machine late 70's has been relocated to what I hope is it's final resting spot. Machine spent many years, at various locations under cover, but spent several years outside in the cold. Rubber feed rollers fell apart during a recent trip to it's current basement location. A little bumping on the way down the stairs made the problem apparent as several pieces of rubber were left in our wake. Thank god, it happened before we cranked it up. Rubber bullets all over the shop!

Replacement rollers were purchased, at what I thought was an exorbinant price, almost $600 Cdn. After many hours, and several weekend visits, we eventually were able to remove the Philips screws that held the rollers in place. I HATE philips screws! Actually we only got them out by finally resorting to hammering on their centres with a fine nail punch and to our surprise they moved and we finally got them out. If all else fails hit it? New rollers were installed easily and everything in sight received endless amounts of oil or grease.

We plugged it in and fed through a scrap. Sounded fine and everything seemed ok but the test sample did not feed through well. When I looked it was obvious both the infeed and outfeed rollers were not alined properly. Problem now is that we can't move any (4) of the top mounted outside screw driven roller adjustment controls. Centre, pressure roller, adjustments move ok.

Did we reinstall something incorrectly? Seems unlikely as the holes for the springs and related parts are round. Any thoughts you might have for getting the roller adjustments moving would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!

Larry_Williams's picture

(post #89959, reply #1 of 8)

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Greg,

Did you clean the threaded section of the head when you had it apart?

Adjust the height of the roller before you adjust the pressure. Since there's no reference for pressure adjustments you'll end up tweeking the pressure until you've got it working right. Adjusting the height requires a spanner type of screw driver and I use one ground from a wide spade-type drill bit. If the treads are packed with dust and/or corrosion you may not be able to adjust the roller height.

It's been a while since I replaced the rollers on my planer but I can't remember anything tricky about putting it back together.

Greg_Keen's picture

(post #89959, reply #2 of 8)

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Larry,

Thank you so much for your prompt reply. I had actually thought of backing the pressure adjustment all the way off but couldn't then see how we could rotate the outside rings. Their illustration, in the manual, shows a small narrow screwdriver being inserted in one side of the ring. Not happening! Your idea of fashioning a spilt screw driver out of a cheap spade bit might be the answer. Great idea! We'll definitely try that.

I'm not great with machines, as you might have guessed, so am not sure what you are refering to as the threaded section of the head. When we finally got the blasted screws out. the roller dropped out along with with the springs and retaining pieces for the roller blocks/bearings at both ends. We did not dismantle anything further.

Right now I'm 150 miles away from the machine so can't go look. Is the height adjustment and pressure adjustment unit threaded into the machine? Should we have removed and cleaned up those bits before we reinstalled the new rollers?

Thanks again for your thoughts and I really appreciated your response. If you can spare another few minutes for another kick at the can my brother-in-law and I would be most grateful. My sister is getting impatient for some results and all the promised projects. Almost all, I might add, she has dreamed up!

Greg

Larry_Williams's picture

(post #89959, reply #3 of 8)

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Greg,

One of the benefits of my cell phone is free weekend long distance. My 2040 is in the other shop. I'll be there working tomorrow and I can call from there where I can look at the machine. It's actually a pretty good machine with a few odd quirks and one is what we're dealing with here.

The head is threaded where the spanner type adjustment screws into it. That head is aluminum and tends to hang on to fine dust which can make adjustment difficult. When you drop the infeed and out feed rollers you expose the threads and can clean them up and lubricate them.

I know later manuals for the 2040 omitted some instructions because over-tensioning can actual warp the cast iron table. I'll dig out my instructions and check to see if you've e-mailed me a phone number in the morning.

Greg_Keen's picture

(post #89959, reply #4 of 8)

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Hello Larry,

Thanks, again, for getting back to me. My machine was purchased soon after the model was introduced, back in the 70's. It filled a huge void in the market for people running small shops who couldn't afford anything else then available. Large capacity and rubber rollers that didn't crush the finished surface worked great for me. Never invested in carbide blades as the regular steel ones seemed to cut a surprising long time, although I do have two extra sets. Noise level seemed quite acceptble considering what it is doing and compared to other machines I have worked with.

Understand, I think, you comment about aluminum head treaded into steel casting. Funily enough I originally picked the Makita machine because it was primarily made of steel. There were others on offer at the time constructed almost completely of aluminum. Seemed to me that if you bounced a board of them they would be half way across the shop. Huge debates raged at the time, steel and mass, versus aluminum.

If we removed the newly installed rollers I assume, as there would be no spring tension, we might have better luck moving the roller adjustment? We have poured tons of penetrating oil on them, several times. It we can get them moving we will back them all the way out and clean up all the threads. When we get back up North, were the beast sits, I'll make sure to let you know how things work out.

Your offer of a call is very generous, if you are sure it won't cost and you have some other suggestions. Sorry I didn't tune in sooner. Am not generally glued to my computer, in fact I sometimes don't turn it on for days as I spend my workdays in front of several.

Thanks for you time,
Greg Keen (Toronto)

416 784-0512

Rod2s's picture

Makita 2040 feedroller adjustment (post #89959, reply #5 of 8)

Attached are 3 pdf files that originated with Elaine Miller at Makita. They are, I believe, internal Makita documents and outline the whole dis-assembly and re-assembly process for the feedroller system for both original and modified components. After you read them you understand the system.

Kokagija's picture

Makita 2040 feed rollers (post #89959, reply #6 of 8)

Just to let you know there is an option to cover the feed rollers with new polyurethane, instead of buying new ones. In canada there are at least 2 companies who will do thiis, Elastochem in Brantford Ont. and ACR Group with locations in Richmond BC. and Nisku AB. There are also several in the US Western Rollers is one. You can do searces under rollers or polyurethane, which is how I found these companies.

cowtown's picture

2040 planer rollers rehab (post #89959, reply #7 of 8)

place in Calgay AB Canadar too, have apparently done for others before. Cost is about 120 CDN$ (80-90 us$)

 

These machines are like that little battery bunny....takes a liking and keeps on ticking. Mine is pushing 4o years, the motor is so small, you wouyld think it came from a sewing machine, And replacing feed rollers is the furst major surgery. Only previous hiccup was replacing brushes in the motor.

 

Eric

leminhtien's picture

Download over 16,000 (post #89959, reply #8 of 8)

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