NEW! Faster Search Option
Loading
help with thumbnails
Hello,
I'm an aspiring old tool user, working with curly maple drawer fronts. The project is a reproduction Queen Anne chest. One of my old molding planes makes nice thumb nails (Is that the correct term for a quarter round between two square shoulders?) in one direction. Do I need to find a matching tool for the opposite grain? What about the cross grain ends? Perhaps there is a technique that will avoid the tear-out and cracking on corners. The potential excuse to look for another old plane is enticing. But I have not seen pairs of planes for shaping drawer edges. Any thoughts? I need all the advice that comes my way...
THANKS FOR YOUR HELP!
Karl
Navigation
Recent Discussions
Fixing gaps in mitered face frame 5 replies
Homemade Horizontal Router Table 4 replies
leveling jig 2 replies
Miter Saw Stand FWW 209 2 replies
drilling dog holes 9 replies
Thien Cyclone Separator 1 reply
How many teeth? 3 replies
Re: Holzman and Vega lathes 3 replies
Inca/Delta 20" Bandsaws 4 replies
Cast Iron Clamp 4 replies
Building a Floor Clook 1 reply
Music Boxes 1 reply
Star of David 3 replies
update to beaver jointer 3 replies
Technical Table Saw Rip Cut Question 28 replies
Delta Unisaw vs Cross-cut sled 14 replies
Router Lift 20 replies
Hand Tool Grinding Angle Setups 11 replies
More Rust Hunter 1 reply
Lie-Nielsen Router Plane 3 replies
Regarding sharpening 2 replies
looking for lignum vitae mallet 28 replies
Half lap joints 2 replies
Rolltop desk top 3 replies
Large Pins, small tails 4 replies
What joint is thi? 3 replies
Can't see any videos 2 replies
Forced log-offs . . . again? 4 replies
Fix: Private Messaging Spam 13 replies
Get in touch with author 1 reply



(post #123830, reply #1 of 2)
Karl,
Yup. Any excuse to buy another tool is good enough--but you really don't need another plane for this job. For instance, I own only one panel raising plane, and it does just fine around all four sides. As always, there are some things you can do to avoid problems.
First and foremost: SHARP! A truly sharp iron will eliminate many problems. Learning what a really sharp iron is and how to get it that way are necessary skills for hand tool users.
To get rid of tear out at the edge of the profile--assuming your plane doesn't have a nicker--you can use a SHARP marking knife or utility knife to cut the grain at what will be the inside edge of the profile. Once you have used a knife to get a good edge on the wood there shouldn't be any further tear out. This is really necessary only on the cross-grain ends; the plane alone should do fine on the long grain sides.
As for end grain, again a sharp iron and the plane set to take a very fine cut will cure most ails. Tear out at the end of the cross-grain cut will cease to be a problem if you begin making the profile by going across one of the ends and then work clock-wise around the panel. That way any tear out won't matter because you will plane it away when you go down the long-grain side.
One other thing: because molding profile irons are more difficult to sharpen than a straight iron, if you remove as much wood as you can with another plane--a plough plane or rabbet plane for example--you'll save yourself a lot of time sharpening the molding plane iron.
ALERT: As you may already have realized, obtaining and using hand tools is highly addictive; like all addicts you will want to get more, more, and still more. You have been warned.
Alan
(post #123830, reply #2 of 2)
Alan,
Thanks for the guidance and encouragement. I'll practice some more on my scrap pine.
Best regards,
Karl