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help with thumbnails

KarlSchmidt's picture

Hello,


I'm an aspiring old tool user, working with curly maple drawer fronts.  The project is a reproduction Queen Anne chest. One of my old molding planes makes nice thumb nails (Is that the correct term for a quarter round between two square shoulders?) in one direction.  Do I need to find a matching tool for the opposite grain?  What about the cross grain ends?  Perhaps there is a technique that will avoid the tear-out and cracking on corners.  The potential excuse to look for another old plane is enticing.  But I have not seen pairs of planes for shaping drawer edges.  Any thoughts?  I need all the advice that comes my way...


THANKS FOR YOUR HELP!


Karl


 

hmltnalan's picture

(post #123830, reply #1 of 2)

Karl,


Yup.  Any excuse to buy another tool is good enough--but you really don't need another plane for this job.  For instance, I own only one panel raising plane, and it does just fine around all four sides.  As always, there are some things you can do to avoid problems.


First and foremost:  SHARP!  A truly sharp iron will eliminate many problems.  Learning what a really sharp iron is and how to get it that way are necessary skills for hand tool users.


To get rid of tear out at the edge of the profile--assuming your plane doesn't have a nicker--you can use a SHARP marking knife or utility knife to cut the grain at what will be the inside edge of the profile.  Once you have used a knife to get a good edge on the wood there shouldn't be any further tear out.  This is really necessary only on the cross-grain ends; the plane alone should do fine on the long grain sides.


As for end grain, again a sharp iron and the plane set to take a very fine cut will cure most ails.  Tear out at the end of the cross-grain cut will cease to be a problem if you begin making the profile by going across one of the ends and then work clock-wise around the panel.  That way any tear out won't matter because you will plane it away when you go down the long-grain side.


One other thing:  because molding profile irons are more difficult to sharpen than a straight iron, if you remove as much wood as you can with another plane--a plough plane or rabbet plane for example--you'll save yourself a lot of time sharpening the molding plane iron.


ALERT:  As you may already have realized, obtaining and using hand tools is highly addictive; like all addicts you will want to get more, more, and still more.  You have been warned.


Alan

KarlSchmidt's picture

(post #123830, reply #2 of 2)

Alan,


 


Thanks for the guidance and encouragement.  I'll practice some more on my scrap pine.


Best regards,


Karl